Wednesday, February 07, 2007

St. Lucia -- January/February 2007

4 nights Ti Kaye Village Resort, Castries
4 nights Stonefield Estate Villa Resort, Soufriere


Photo link: http://tinyurl.com/2wa3vq

Reviews coming soon...

Costa Rica -- August/September 2006

For this vacation, we spent one night at Hotel Grano de Oro in San Jose, four nights at Los Altos de Eros Inn and Spa just outside of Tamarindo, and four nights at Gaia Hotel and Reserve in Manuel Antonio.

http://www.hotelgranodeoro.com
http://www.losaltosdeeros.com/
http://www.gaiahr.com/index.asp

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/34fw2g

Hotel Grano de Oro review:

My husband and I spent a night here at the beginning of a 9-night Costa Rica vacation last fall, and were pleased overall with the property. Check in was fairly quick and quite friendly, and the public areas of the hotel are lovely, with several small foliage-draped courtyards.

The superior room was not large or fancy, but was certainly comfortable enought for the night. We had a window looking out onto a pretty open air courtyard, and a spacious-enough bathroom. The shower was large and the water pressure was good. The only real complaint we had was that it was very noisy in the morning (starting pretty early). Not sure if they were doing construction to the hotel itself or just nearby, but there were a lot of chainsaw/jackhammer type sounds in the hours before we checked out.

We had already eaten dinner by the time we arrived, but did partake in a couple of cocktails--the mojitos were especially delicious! Breakfast the next morning was very good as well, and we were shocked at how inexpensive it was.

Transportation between the airport and hotel will be somewhere around $15-$20, and the ride is around 20 minutes or so.

I would say GdO is a very good choice in San Jose, and we'd absolutely stay there again.

Los Altos de Eros review:

Like a character in an old cartoon, I sit here now with a devil on one shoulder and an angel on the other… The devil tells me to keep my mouth shut about how unreal Los Altos de Eros is. The angel says that since I found Los Altos through Tripadvisor in the first place (and booked our visit within the hour!) it’s only fair to add my own 2 cents. I am quite tempted to listen to my devilish side (as usual), but lucky for you, I have always been good at sharing!

I will admit, my husband and I are picky travelers, and expect the very best. We have been lucky enough to spend time in many of the world’s (supposed) finest hotels, but never have we experienced anywhere like Los Altos. This is paradise--every detail here is perfect, every luxury complete. Many 5-star resorts have good staff who manage to be friendly and helpful, and make your stay run smoothly. But each of the 22 people who work here—Ari, Yanina, Leo, Wilfredo, and Francisco to name a few—go beyond that. Not one person we encountered was any less than completely kind, charming, gentle, delightful, and supremely perceptive as to when we needed anything (or nothing!) at all. The service and attention that one receives as a guest here is the very definition of luxury. It is obvious from the moment you walk through the front door that everyone truly adores what they do and is happy to be here. The difference that makes is immeasurable, and is a tremendous part of what makes Los Altos such an incredible place to stay.

The inn itself is stunningly designed and decorated—I won’t spend much time describing it, since photographs do a much better job than I ever could. But I will say it is a brilliant combination of Costa Rican flavor and character, Mediterranean style architecture, and barefoot luxury mixed with casual elegance. Our room was filled with sunlight during the day, and at night, we fell asleep in the supremely comfortable bed the moment our heads touched the pillows. The bed itself was decorated daily with fresh orchids, a beautiful tropical touch. When we first checked into the inn, a chilled bottle of white wine and 2 glasses awaited us on our dresser—wonderful after a long day of travel! We stayed in a king room, and spent most of our time sitting on the cushioned chaise lounges on our deck, looking out over the lush green hills that slope gently down to the blue Pacific. In the distance, we often heard the almost primordial-sounding calls of the local howler monkeys—who also made some appearances in the trees only yards away from where we sat!

One huge factor of what makes Los Altos such a wonderful retreat is the guests themselves. As Peter (reviewer #52) commented, there seems to be some self-selection at work here. (This is not a place for everyone—if you love the feel of a large anonymous resort, if you don’t like to spend time getting to know those around you, if you are the type who treats hotel staff like servants, this is not the place for you). However, if you love getting the chance to really talk to others, be around people who have interesting stories to tell and are interested in meeting you as well, you will fit in well and love your stay. Never before have I been able to say that not only was I lucky enough to get to know at least a little bit about every person who shared the inn with us during our 4-nights there, but I could still tell you every single person’s name. I think we were truly lucky to have a particularly lovely group staying there with us, but then I may be biased… Hello to everyone who was there with us—and Mark and Ros, thank you for your hello and kind invitation! You know y’all always have a place to stay in Atlanta—we would love to have you visit us anytime!

Another area in which Los Altos excels is its meals—the food, the presentation, the service, there is nothing to say except that it doesn’t get any better than this. Our Saturday night dinner was already well-described in review #52, but I must say that post-dinner was just as much fun, as Calvin and Jacqueline sat with us and some of the other guests by the pool, talking and laughing, and just enjoying our time together. Speaking of Calvin and Jacqueline, I must say that never before have my husband and I been so warmly welcomed anywhere. We stepped into their home as strangers, but I feel we left as friends. You will have a hard time finding more interesting people to talk to, and both are sophisticated, witty, fun, entertaining and constantly committed to making sure their guests are having an extraordinary stay—absolutely the consummate host and hostess.

We had planned to do several activities while we were in the Tamarindo area—surfing, fishing, and a zip-line tour. But we could not bring ourselves to leave the resort—our state of relaxation and pure bliss was too great to consider stepping out into the real world for more than an hour or two! My only regret about our time there is that we did not do the day spa package—but at least we have that to look forward to during our next visit! We did have the sunset massage for 2, though—a divinely romantic and decadent treat that everyone should partake in while visiting. It does not get any better than an amazing massage followed by alone time with your “amor”, sipping champagne and eating strawberries with cream and brown sugar, listening to the howler monkeys cry out as the sun slips down over the jungle and sea.

But the delights did not stop there…we followed this up with a private dinner in the spa. A table was set up next to the jacuzzi, and we were served a delectable meal by candlelight. A salad with pecan-crusted goat cheese preceded moist and tender grilled mahi-mahi and vegetables with garlic bread. Rum-soaked brownies with vanilla-bean ice cream were a perfect end to a fabulous meal. The spa was then ours for the evening, so we made good use of it, sipping wine in the jacuzzi while staring at the star-studded sky. I just cannot imagine a more romantic setting or a more flawless evening.

I have so much more to say about Los Altos de Eros, but feel it is best experienced firsthand, like all the most worthwhile things in life. No matter how many pictures you see of the staggeringly beautiful sunsets from the pool, no matter how many glowing reviews you read, you can’t truly appreciate the astonishing appeal of Los Altos until you have actually spent time there yourself. In the meantime, please feel free to email me if you have any questions about my stay.

Just one more thing…while I agree with the reviewers who stated they felt like royalty/celebrities, I would say it is even better than that. I must continue the “between heaven and earth” theme I have seen in other reviews, and say that staying here must be more like being a particularly pampered and sybaritic angel, for everything about Los Altos is heaven indeed. I don’t know how Jacqueline and Calvin have made it all come together in such a spectacular, decadent, sensuous, fun, special, perfect way, but they have. We marveled at every moment while we were there, and have barely spoken about anything else since the day we left. My only worry is that nowhere else will ever measure up—Los Altos may very well have ruined us for other hotels! It is truly without equal—I am very confident in saying you will not find anywhere else quite like it on Earth. We will be going back as soon as humanly possible. Many thanks to Jacqueline and Calvin for a stay beyond compare.




Gaia review coming soon...

Lanai and Big Island, Hawaii -- July 2006

2 nights at a friend's home in Kona
3 nights Four Seasons Manele Bay on Lanai

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2ldsgo

I spent several nights at the 4S Manele Bay last summer for a girl's trip with my college roommate, and had a wonderful time! It's a beautiful resort with lovely rooms, great service, pool, food, etc. The clientele was mostly made up of honeymooner-types, couples in their 40s-50s, and families (though fewer of this last group than of the others). Do keep in mind that the beach is open to the public, as are all beaches in HI, so it was more crowded than the resort itself. There is also an area of the beach (closest to the path to the resort itself), that while not exclusive to the 4S, is where they put out the beach chairs and umbrellas that are for exclusive 4S guest use. So that area of the beach is pretty quiet, at least when we were there.

I can't speak to the activities at the hotel, as I spent the majority of my time just soaking up the sun by the beach or the pool, but I can say that this is a fabulous place to relax and unwind. With pool butlers coming by to offer frozen drinks, an Evian spritz, to clean your sunglasses, it's hard to get motivated to leave your chair! The service is excellent, as one would expect from a 4S resort. We ate at every restaurant there during our stay, and did not have a single meal that was any less than delicious.

One really cool feature of the location is that there are dozens of dolphins that live in Manele Bay and play in the waters there every day (or at least, when we were there!) They were a joy to watch jump and spin through the sea! My one and only (and very minor) disappointment of my stay was that the water was rougher, and thus the snorkeling not as good, as I'd hoped for previously. However, this may have just been due to the time of year.

We didn't rent a car while we were there, but the hotel runs a shuttle up to "town" (Lania City) and the 4S Lodge at Koele. There's not much to see and do in Lanai City, but it's an interesting and scenic ride up there, and there are a few cute shops to poke around in. The Lodge is pretty, with gorgeous grounds, but I was not as taken with it as I was with the Manele Bay property. Still, worth going up for a walk around the grounds and a drink in the bar. They also do an afternoon tea there, but it's a bit sparse--literally tea and a few cookies (we had been all excited for a full English tea, so were a bit let down!)

When someone recently asked me how I would best describe the 4S Manele Bay, I told her "lush, luxurious, and lovely"! It's just an all-around great resort--I really had no complaints about anything. I usually prefer boutique type resorts, but I still really enjoyed staying here. Everything is sort of "just right" here, if that makes sense. Not over the top, or ostentatious, just pretty and relaxing and pampering and romantic --well, would have been romantic if I'd been there with my husband instead of a friend, at least! I would absolutely recommend this resort to anyone looking for a beautiful and peaceful getaway.







Belize--June/July '06

Our second trip to Ambergris Caye, Belize--this time brought 4 friends along with us!
1 night Villas at Banyan Bay
4 nights Victoria House

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/34hq8e

Banyan Bay review coming soon...

Victoria House review:

Note:
We have now spent 2 vacations at Victoria House (4 nights each in September of '05 and July of '06). I wrote these reviews right after our trips, and am finally getting around to actually posting them! At any rates, on both trips we have just LOVED Victoria House, and we tend to be very picky :). We actually booked a stateroom as well, but got upgraded to a casita for the first three nights, so only spent one night in the staterooms. They don't have a private porch, but are much brighter and cooler than the casitas. The casitas have bigger beds, and again, the private porch with beach view is great, but may or may not be worth an extra $100+ a night to you*. Especially since you really won't be spending much time in your room anyway, with such gorgeous scenery outside!

*See note under stateroom section

We only stayed on Ambergris Caye, so I can't really tell you about the rest of Belize, but on AC, Victoria House is absolutely THE place to stay. We saw pretty much every resort on the island while we were there, and nowhere else even compared. In south Belize, on Placencia, Turtle Inn is supposed to be fabulous, though.


Tropic Air: Leaves BZE for San Pedro at bottom of every hour (or at :40?)
Maya Island Air: Leaves San Pedro for BZE at tip of every hour
Both $54 usd pp each way
Very similar—small 12 seat or so planes, great views


Victoria House:
Rooms: When we originally booked our package (through Travelocity) the only room available was the stateroom, which is the least expensive room. However, we inquired about upgrades upon arrival, and were given a free upgrade to casita instead for our first 3 nights. The casitas are set in the grass a bit back from the beach, and are small but pretty. Each has a porch with two chairs and a tile container filled with water (changed daily and topped with flower petals) with which to rinse your feet before entering the room. Victoria House is in the process of glassing in all the casitas, but right now most still have only screens and shutters on the windows. This definitely contributes to the “tropics” feel of the rooms, but unfortunately also is not great for keeping the room cool.

We liked the super comfortable king-sized bed draped with mosquito netting—until bedtime. Unfortunately, we discovered, the choice was air-conditioning or mosquito protection, as the netting blocked airflow. And even without the netting, the a/c unit was situated such that it was hard to feel the cool air while in bed. A few enterprising fellow guests told us they actually moved the mattress under the a/c, and that worked well. But my suggestion would be to ask for a glassed in unit when you book. But the bed itself was great—just the right firmness and luxurious bedding with high thread count sheets and a bright white duvet. The bathroom was tiny—about the size of a closet. But really, how much time do you spend in the bathroom? That didn’t bother us, but if you are looking for the huge marble bath, this may not be the room (or country, for that matter!) for you. The floors were tile, which was nice and cool on our hot and sandy feet. The room also contained a safe, minibar, desk and a couple of chairs. The casitas are a bit dark at night or when the shutters are closed, but once again, you won’t be spending much time in the room (and if you will be in the room a lot, you’re probably honeymooners, and won’t want bright light anyway!) There was some construction noise directly behind our casita (at times it sounded like someone was hammering on our wall), which I think was from the new “Villas at Victoria House” development.

Staterooms—On our last night we were “down-graded” as it were to the stateroom we had originally booked. To be honest, we liked these better than the casitas! The staterooms are located on the2nd floor of the main building. The rooms all share a wrap around porch, but that was nice for socializing—we had a little happy hour party up there! And the views of the resort are great up there as well—you don’t have the direct ocean view from some parts, but you can just turn your head and see it.  Because they are glassed in, the staterooms are much cooler and brighter (since you don’t have to keep the shutters closed) than the casitas. These rooms had 2 double beds instead of a king—I personally did not think they were quite as comfy as those in the casitas, but my husband thought the opposite, so that’s just a matter of taste, I suppose. The bathroom was actually a bit larger, but that may have been b/c the vanity was in with the shower and toilet.

Note: On our 2nd trip, we again stayed in a stateroom. Unfortunately, this time we got the worst (smallest, no view) room in the house. I believe it was #14, but it was whichever room is in the very corner of the building. If planning to stay in a stateroom, I would recommend making sure you do not get that one.

Both rooms: Bring a hairdryer—there’s not one in the room. There are also no TVs in the rooms, but they will bring you one, along with a VCR (you can borrow movies from the front desk). There are also no telephones in the rooms. This was a bit annoying the couple of times we needed to make calls, but overall it was not a big deal at all.

Food: Delicious! Victoria House really shines in this arena. At breakfast be sure to get a pastry basket 9I believe it is included with all the breakfast entrees). Every bite was delightfully fresh and yummy--muffins, banana bread, zucchini nut bread, etc. The jelly was particularly delicious—an unusual tropical fruit mix—I wish I had brought a jar home with me! We usually ordered the breakfast that included eggs, potatoes, and good, crispy bacon (I hate the limp, congealed bacon you are often served at hotels, so was pleased to see that they actually appeared to cook it properly here!) One morning I ordered the huevos rancheros on the glowing recommendation of another guest. This was probably the only dish I ate at Victoria House that I thought was only OK. Still, that may just be a question of taste.
Lunch—Both times we ate lunch at VH we both had quesadillas, which were very good. The lunch menu also had the typical burger, fish sandwich, salad, etc. selection.

Dinner- Oh, I still have dreams about this meal… We only ate dinner at Palmilla at VH once, and would be very upset about that if the dinners we’d eaten other places had not been excellent as well! But out dinner at Palmilla was truly one of the best meals I’ve eaten anywhere in the world. I had the Pecan-Crusted Grouper, and Bob had the grilled lobster. Both were absolutely fabulous. For dessert I ordered the “molten chocolate” cake with coconut ice cream and sliced bananas. Again, it was delicious.

Drinks—We loved the rum punch at VH—definitely try a glass or 10 while you’re there! I think the only beer they had was Belikan, which was very good (although I am not much of a beer drinker—reminded me a bit of Red Stripe, Corona, etc.. The margaritas were good too--and strong! I would recommend buying a bottle or 2 of liquor from duty free at the airport--perfect for cocktails on porch at sunset, and saves a bit of money over buying them at the bar. Plus, keeps you from having to run back and forth to the bar for refills!

Beaches: Gorgeous—the best in my opinion is at VH, but most of the beaches we saw were very clean and pretty, with powdery white sand and lots of tiny shells. They are dotted with palm trees dangling coconuts, and just all-around look like something out of a Corona commercial! The VH beach has 3 or 4 hammocks and some single and double loungers with cushions. They are sometimes all being used, but we could usually get a free one after a couple minute wait.

Water: Crystal clear and very calm, but not swimmable right off the beach due to an abundance of seagrass. You can walk to the end of the pier and walk down a short ladder into the water for good snorkeling, though. Even better , go to the end of the pier at Ramon’s resort. There, we saw thousands of brightly colored fish, a big stingray (there’s also one that lives by the pier at VH), and even some small barracuda. The water temperature was amazing as well—like a very warm bath.


Pool/grounds: Both the grounds and the pool itself are just beautiful. The grounds are covered in palms and tropical foliage, and kept impeccably clean and maintained at all times. The pool is also kept scrupulously cleaned, as is the pool terrace. There are always plenty of lounge chairs with fluffy cushions (as well as some without) and umbrella shaded tables and chairs where you can catch a few minutes out of the sun or eat some lunch. You can order lunch poolside from either the Palmilla or the bar --both have the same menu (tip: we found it was quicker to order from Palmilla.).

Atmosphere: Absolutely wonderful—the resort is very small and intimate, so you see the same people every day by the pool, on the beach etc. Everyone there (staff and guests) was very friendly and having a great time—we had some great conversations and fun times with other vacationers there! But it is definitely not a big party place, so if you are looking for total peace and quiet, you will still get it here. There were no children until last day, which was fantastic. Everyone was sort of sorry to see a family show up. I find that sometimes adults-only resorts draw a crowd looking more to party, so we liked the fact that while VH is not an AO, we weren’t subjected to screaming kids. Really, VH is just not the place for children. I also think it would be boring for them, since my guess is there are usually very few other children there. For a family trip, I would suggest Ramon’s or captain Morgan’s retreat.

Service: Just great! Everyone working here is always smiling, friendly, and happy to help with whatever you might want or need. This is the kind of place where you never hear no, which is always a plus!

Shuttle: When fly into San Pedro, tell people at airport you are going to VH, they’ll get a cab, which VH will pay for when you arrive at the hotel. It’s less than a 10 minute ride from the airport to VH. There is also a free “shuttle” that leaves from VH at 6:30 pm to take you into town. There may be other times it goes as well, but we only used it then. We tried to be on time for it, but missed it once, and VH had someone take us anyway, which was nice. You have to pay for a cab back to VH from town, but it’s a flat $5 rate each way, so no big deal there.

San Pedro town: Very fun and lively, with narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. Traffic can be a little crazy (not in a gridlock sense, more in a “there are no traffic lights or stop signs or driving laws!”), especially if you are on a bike, but you just have to be a bit careful to make sure a van doesn’t hit you! The only vehicles you’ll see are vans, a few pickup trucks, and golf carts. The town is somewhat Americanized, but not so much that it loses its wonderful sense of Caribbean-meets-Central America. There are vendors selling things on the streets and on some of the beaches, but all you have to do is say “No, thank you” and they’ll leave you alone.

Restaurants: Caliente is amazing. Be sure to try the fisherman’s lobster--it is fabulous, and you'll be amazed at the size of the lobster you get (especially for the low price!) The shrimp wrapped in bacon w/ garlic sauce is also excellent. The entrees are served with delicious coconut rice and grilled veggies—onions, peppers, tomatoes. The margaritas are also great.

Fidos—lobster again—bob’s w/ bacon, mine plain so so so good
Lobster prices at both above restaurants about $20/entree.

Monkey Bites—bit icky, food not bad, lots of flies, small (3 tables)

Jerry’s Crab Shack—crab cake sandwich good, fries also good, sit outside—it’s actually cooler there than inside…frozen lime drink was very yummy

Golf cart rental: $70usd/24 hours $5.50/hr after that ($50 for 8 hours) Moncho's right in town—can’t miss / cheaper than from VH / will deliver the cart to VH and pick up for free

Bugs: The mosquitoes were only bad one day (and a bit of a problem at dusk the other evenings) of our September trip. During our June/July trip, we only had a bit of an issue with them at sunset near the casitas. You will want to bring heavy duty bug repellent though! On our 2nd visit we brought the stuff in the metal can, which was much more effective than what comes in the little spray bottles.

Bikes can be rented for no charge at VH—I would recommend that you rent early in day when it is cooler, though!

Activities—Seaduced (http://ambergriscaye.com/seaduced/) and Searious (http://ambergriscaye.com/searious/index.html) are two of the most well known and reputable tour companies on Ambergris. Their packages and prices are pretty much identical. You don't have to book in advance, but if there is a particular excursion you especially want to do, I would book as soon as you get there. The reason for this is that some of the tours have a 6 or 8 person minimum to go out. If they can't "fill" the tour, it is cancelled. Booking ahead will allow you to pick a day when the tour is already pretty much filled, lessening the risk of cancellation. If you don't want to book before getting to Belize, I would recommend at least running by the office of one or both of the tour companies to find out which days are open for the tours. Keep in mind that if you decide to not go on an excursion you've booked, there is a 24-hour cancellation policy--otherwise, you pay for the tour either way.

On our 2nd trip, we went on the manatee tour with Seaduced, which was fun, interesting, and a good value. The boat takes you to see manatees, then to snorkel off of and have a barbeque lunch on a tiny uninhabited atoll (Goff's Caye). From there we were taken to Shark Ray alley for more snorkeling, then to the seahorse park in the waters off Caye Caulker. The last portion of the excursion was an hour or so stop on Caye Caulker to explore. We were there during Lobsterfest (usually around the first weekend of July), which was quite an experience as well!

Update: we went back to Ambergris for my birthday in December '08. This time, Victoria House was all booked up, so we stayed at Xanadu Island Resort. http://www.xanaduresort-belize.com/

We were very pleased with the location and service here, and our room (we were upgraded to the 2-bedroom Dolphin Suite!) was very spacious and well-appointed. There's a lovely pool hidden in lush foliage, and a nice beach (though only a few beach chairs). This is not a full-service resort (no restaurant/bar) but it's within walking/biking distance from several options. Overall, I would definitely stay here again--the value is excellent--but I still recommend Victoria House as my favorite place to stay on the island!

We rented a golf cart for the entire stay, which I highly recommend--it's great to be able to explore the island at will, and so much fun to drive around!

A few tips from this trip...

-Even though it's tropical, Ambergris was not really hot in mid-December. If the sun was behind a cloud or the wind was blowing, it was almost a little chilly. Still great for laying on the beach as long as the sun was out, but not as hot as one might expect in Central America!

-We didn't do much in terms of excursions this time, just spent a lot of time in our golf cart exploring the island. We did go on a 1/2 day fishing trip (not really my thing, but DH enjoyed it!), and I got a massage at Sol Spa, which was wonderful.

-Palapa Bar, north of "the cut", is such a fun place to relax and hang out. It's out on a jetty over the water, has yummy drinks, and live music on Sundays. They also have inner tubes if you want to float around and have drinks lowered to you in the water!

-Waruguma has really yummy huge lobster burritos. It's just a tiny shopfront on center street, but not hard to find.

-My favorite restaurants are still Palmilla at Victoria House and Caliente on the beach in town--definitely try the pecan-crusted grouper at the former and the lobster (best prices in town!) at the latter.

Moorea, Tikehau, and Tahiti (French Polynesia) -- April 2006

For our second anniversary, Bob and I decided to go back to French Polynesia, where we'd spent our honeymoon. We spent one night in LA on the way out there, which I would highly recommend doing if you are coming from the East coast or Midwest, as it breaks up the long travel time.

Here was our itinerary:
1 night Westin Los Angeles Airport
3 nights Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa
4 nights Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort
1 night Intercontinental Resort Tahiti

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2o3lh5

Westin LAX review:
We spent one night here on a layover between Atlanta and Tahiti.
The rooms are fine--on the small side, but with the great Westin Heavenly beds. Very small bathrooms and a lack of water pressure, but that was not a huge deal for one night. No problems with airport noise at all.

We had dinner at the bar downstairs--it offers the standard bar fare, just dressed up a bit. Our meals were somewhat overpriced and not particularly good--not sure how a restaurant can screw up pizza, but it is apparently possible :)

Service can a bit surly. Check-out was fine, but the young guy who checked us in at the Starwood preferred desk was plain rude (basically could barely be bothered to speak to us, blatantly ignored a question we asked, etc.). Bar service was semi-polite, though very slow.

My advice would be to stay at the Sheraton Gateway instead (we had tried to get in there, but they were all booked). We had a much better night's stay there a few months prior.

Other reviews coming soon...

Cabo San Lucas, Mexico -- December 2005

5 nights at the Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2u5q9x

review coming soon...

Tuscany, Italy and a surprise visit to Paris -- Thanksgiving 2005

2 nights Hotel Calzaiuoli, Florence
2 nights Grand Hotel Continental, Siena
1 night complete dump, somewhere in France that may or may not have actually been Paris

Italy photos: http://tinyurl.com/2nx5uc

Paris photos: http://tinyurl.com/3xdxow

reviews to come...

Belize--Labor Day weekend 2005

4 nights Victoria House, Ambergris Caye

Photos from trip 1 (trip 2 photo link in most recent Belize blog): http://tinyurl.com/ypzf94

Note:
We have now spent 2 vacations at Victoria House (4 nights each in September of '05 and July of '06). I wrote these reviews right after our trips, and am finally getting around to actually posting them! At any rates, on both trips we have just LOVED Victoria House, and we tend to be very picky :). We actually booked a stateroom as well, but got upgraded to a casita for the first three nights, so only spent one night in the staterooms. They don't have a private porch, but are much brighter and cooler than the casitas. The casitas have bigger beds, and again, the private porch with beach view is great, but may or may not be worth an extra $100+ a night to you*. Especially since you really won't be spending much time in your room anyway, with such gorgeous scenery outside!

*See note under stateroom section

We only stayed on Ambergris Caye, so I can't really tell you about the rest of Belize, but on AC, Victoria House is absolutely THE place to stay. We saw pretty much every resort on the island while we were there, and nowhere else even compared. In south Belize, on Placencia, Turtle Inn is supposed to be fabulous, though.


Tropic Air: Leaves BZE for San Pedro at bottom of every hour (or at :40?)
Maya Island Air: Leaves San Pedro for BZE at tip of every hour
Both $54 usd pp each way
Very similar—small 12 seat or so planes, great views


Victoria House:
Rooms: When we originally booked our package (through Travelocity) the only room available was the stateroom, which is the least expensive room. However, we inquired about upgrades upon arrival, and were given a free upgrade to casita instead for our first 3 nights. The casitas are set in the grass a bit back from the beach, and are small but pretty. Each has a porch with two chairs and a tile container filled with water (changed daily and topped with flower petals) with which to rinse your feet before entering the room. Victoria House is in the process of glassing in all the casitas, but right now most still have only screens and shutters on the windows. This definitely contributes to the “tropics” feel of the rooms, but unfortunately also is not great for keeping the room cool.

We liked the super comfortable king-sized bed draped with mosquito netting—until bedtime. Unfortunately, we discovered, the choice was air-conditioning or mosquito protection, as the netting blocked airflow. And even without the netting, the a/c unit was situated such that it was hard to feel the cool air while in bed. A few enterprising fellow guests told us they actually moved the mattress under the a/c, and that worked well. But my suggestion would be to ask for a glassed in unit when you book. But the bed itself was great—just the right firmness and luxurious bedding with high thread count sheets and a bright white duvet. The bathroom was tiny—about the size of a closet. But really, how much time do you spend in the bathroom? That didn’t bother us, but if you are looking for the huge marble bath, this may not be the room (or country, for that matter!) for you. The floors were tile, which was nice and cool on our hot and sandy feet. The room also contained a safe, minibar, desk and a couple of chairs. The casitas are a bit dark at night or when the shutters are closed, but once again, you won’t be spending much time in the room (and if you will be in the room a lot, you’re probably honeymooners, and won’t want bright light anyway!) There was some construction noise directly behind our casita (at times it sounded like someone was hammering on our wall), which I think was from the new “Villas at Victoria House” development.

Staterooms—On our last night we were “down-graded” as it were to the stateroom we had originally booked. To be honest, we liked these better than the casitas! The staterooms are located on the2nd floor of the main building. The rooms all share a wrap around porch, but that was nice for socializing—we had a little happy hour party up there! And the views of the resort are great up there as well—you don’t have the direct ocean view from some parts, but you can just turn your head and see it.  Because they are glassed in, the staterooms are much cooler and brighter (since you don’t have to keep the shutters closed) than the casitas. These rooms had 2 double beds instead of a king—I personally did not think they were quite as comfy as those in the casitas, but my husband thought the opposite, so that’s just a matter of taste, I suppose. The bathroom was actually a bit larger, but that may have been b/c the vanity was in with the shower and toilet.

Note: On our 2nd trip, we again stayed in a stateroom. Unfortunately, this time we got the worst (smallest, no view) room in the house. I believe it was #14, but it was whichever room is in the very corner of the building. If planning to stay in a stateroom, I would recommend making sure you do not get that one.

Both rooms: Bring a hairdryer—there’s not one in the room. There are also no TVs in the rooms, but they will bring you one, along with a VCR (you can borrow movies from the front desk). There are also no telephones in the rooms. This was a bit annoying the couple of times we needed to make calls, but overall it was not a big deal at all.

Food: Delicious! Victoria House really shines in this arena. At breakfast be sure to get a pastry basket 9I believe it is included with all the breakfast entrees). Every bite was delightfully fresh and yummy--muffins, banana bread, zucchini nut bread, etc. The jelly was particularly delicious—an unusual tropical fruit mix—I wish I had brought a jar home with me! We usually ordered the breakfast that included eggs, potatoes, and good, crispy bacon (I hate the limp, congealed bacon you are often served at hotels, so was pleased to see that they actually appeared to cook it properly here!) One morning I ordered the huevos rancheros on the glowing recommendation of another guest. This was probably the only dish I ate at Victoria House that I thought was only OK. Still, that may just be a question of taste.
Lunch—Both times we ate lunch at VH we both had quesadillas, which were very good. The lunch menu also had the typical burger, fish sandwich, salad, etc. selection.

Dinner- Oh, I still have dreams about this meal… We only ate dinner at Palmilla at VH once, and would be very upset about that if the dinners we’d eaten other places had not been excellent as well! But out dinner at Palmilla was truly one of the best meals I’ve eaten anywhere in the world. I had the Pecan-Crusted Grouper, and Bob had the grilled lobster. Both were absolutely fabulous. For dessert I ordered the “molten chocolate” cake with coconut ice cream and sliced bananas. Again, it was delicious.

Drinks—We loved the rum punch at VH—definitely try a glass or 10 while you’re there! I think the only beer they had was Belikan, which was very good (although I am not much of a beer drinker—reminded me a bit of Red Stripe, Corona, etc.. The margaritas were good too--and strong! I would recommend buying a bottle or 2 of liquor from duty free at the airport--perfect for cocktails on porch at sunset, and saves a bit of money over buying them at the bar. Plus, keeps you from having to run back and forth to the bar for refills!

Beaches: Gorgeous—the best in my opinion is at VH, but most of the beaches we saw were very clean and pretty, with powdery white sand and lots of tiny shells. They are dotted with palm trees dangling coconuts, and just all-around look like something out of a Corona commercial! The VH beach has 3 or 4 hammocks and some single and double loungers with cushions. They are sometimes all being used, but we could usually get a free one after a couple minute wait.

Water: Crystal clear and very calm, but not swimmable right off the beach due to an abundance of seagrass. You can walk to the end of the pier and walk down a short ladder into the water for good snorkeling, though. Even better , go to the end of the pier at Ramon’s resort. There, we saw thousands of brightly colored fish, a big stingray (there’s also one that lives by the pier at VH), and even some small barracuda. The water temperature was amazing as well—like a very warm bath.


Pool/grounds: Both the grounds and the pool itself are just beautiful. The grounds are covered in palms and tropical foliage, and kept impeccably clean and maintained at all times. The pool is also kept scrupulously cleaned, as is the pool terrace. There are always plenty of lounge chairs with fluffy cushions (as well as some without) and umbrella shaded tables and chairs where you can catch a few minutes out of the sun or eat some lunch. You can order lunch poolside from either the Palmilla or the bar --both have the same menu (tip: we found it was quicker to order from Palmilla.).

Atmosphere: Absolutely wonderful—the resort is very small and intimate, so you see the same people every day by the pool, on the beach etc. Everyone there (staff and guests) was very friendly and having a great time—we had some great conversations and fun times with other vacationers there! But it is definitely not a big party place, so if you are looking for total peace and quiet, you will still get it here. There were no children until last day, which was fantastic. Everyone was sort of sorry to see a family show up. I find that sometimes adults-only resorts draw a crowd looking more to party, so we liked the fact that while VH is not an AO, we weren’t subjected to screaming kids. Really, VH is just not the place for children. I also think it would be boring for them, since my guess is there are usually very few other children there. For a family trip, I would suggest Ramon’s or captain Morgan’s retreat.

Service: Just great! Everyone working here is always smiling, friendly, and happy to help with whatever you might want or need. This is the kind of place where you never hear no, which is always a plus!

Shuttle: When fly into San Pedro, tell people at airport you are going to VH, they’ll get a cab, which VH will pay for when you arrive at the hotel. It’s less than a 10 minute ride from the airport to VH. There is also a free “shuttle” that leaves from VH at 6:30 pm to take you into town. There may be other times it goes as well, but we only used it then. We tried to be on time for it, but missed it once, and VH had someone take us anyway, which was nice. You have to pay for a cab back to VH from town, but it’s a flat $5 rate each way, so no big deal there.

San Pedro town: Very fun and lively, with narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. Traffic can be a little crazy (not in a gridlock sense, more in a “there are no traffic lights or stop signs or driving laws!”), especially if you are on a bike, but you just have to be a bit careful to make sure a van doesn’t hit you! The only vehicles you’ll see are vans, a few pickup trucks, and golf carts. The town is somewhat Americanized, but not so much that it loses its wonderful sense of Caribbean-meets-Central America. There are vendors selling things on the streets and on some of the beaches, but all you have to do is say “No, thank you” and they’ll leave you alone.

Restaurants: Caliente is amazing. Be sure to try the fisherman’s lobster--it is fabulous, and you'll be amazed at the size of the lobster you get (especially for the low price!) The shrimp wrapped in bacon w/ garlic sauce is also excellent. The entrees are served with delicious coconut rice and grilled veggies—onions, peppers, tomatoes. The margaritas are also great.

Fidos—lobster again—bob’s w/ bacon, mine plain so so so good
Lobster prices at both above restaurants about $20/entree.

Monkey Bites—bit icky, food not bad, lots of flies, small (3 tables)

Jerry’s Crab Shack—crab cake sandwich good, fries also good, sit outside—it’s actually cooler there than inside…frozen lime drink was very yummy

Golf cart rental: $70usd/24 hours $5.50/hr after that ($50 for 8 hours) Moncho's right in town—can’t miss / cheaper than from VH / will deliver the cart to VH and pick up for free

Bugs: The mosquitoes were only bad one day (and a bit of a problem at dusk the other evenings) of our September trip. During our June/July trip, we only had a bit of an issue with them at sunset near the casitas. You will want to bring heavy duty bug repellent though! On our 2nd visit we brought the stuff in the metal can, which was much more effective than what comes in the little spray bottles.

Bikes can be rented for no charge at VH—I would recommend that you rent early in day when it is cooler, though!

Activities—Seaduced (http://ambergriscaye.com/seaduced/) and Searious (http://ambergriscaye.com/searious/index.html) are two of the most well known and reputable tour companies on Ambergris. Their packages and prices are pretty much identical. You don't have to book in advance, but if there is a particular excursion you especially want to do, I would book as soon as you get there. The reason for this is that some of the tours have a 6 or 8 person minimum to go out. If they can't "fill" the tour, it is cancelled. Booking ahead will allow you to pick a day when the tour is already pretty much filled, lessening the risk of cancellation. If you don't want to book before getting to Belize, I would recommend at least running by the office of one or both of the tour companies to find out which days are open for the tours. Keep in mind that if you decide to not go on an excursion you've booked, there is a 24-hour cancellation policy--otherwise, you pay for the tour either way.

On our 2nd trip, we went on the manatee tour with Seaduced, which was fun, interesting, and a good value. The boat takes you to see manatees, then to snorkel off of and have a barbeque lunch on a tiny uninhabited atoll (Goff's Caye). From there we were taken to Shark Ray alley for more snorkeling, then to the seahorse park in the waters off Caye Caulker. The last portion of the excursion was an hour or so stop on Caye Caulker to explore. We were there during Lobsterfest (usually around the first weekend of July), which was quite an experience as well!

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