Thursday, April 16, 2009

Back from Tahiti Tiare Agent Conference in French Polynesia!



I recently returned from the 2009 Tahiti Tiare Agent Conference, presented by Tahiti Tourisme North America for travel agents and tour operators who specialize in travel to the islands of French Polynesia. What a fantastic experience--I feel very lucky to have been able to go on such an amazing business trip! While I would have loved to have been able to spend a longer period of time on each island, I do feel like I really got to experience a lot of what each destination had to offer, even in just a couple of days. And there's always next year...

After a bit of a delay due to mechanical problems (I was just glad they were discovered before we got into the air!), our Air Tahiti Nui flight left LAX about 2:30 AM on Thursday morning, March 12. The flight itself was great, albeit it pretty full since it was continuing on to Auckland. I had a window seat and an odorless seatmate, though, and it does not take too much else to make me happy on a plane! The flight went by as fast as an 8.5 long ride can, and before I knew it, we were making our final descent into Papeete, Tahiti. After being greeted with a fragrant flower lei and getting through customs, my colleague Janelle and I headed for our onward flight to the island of Huahine.



About a half an hour later, we touched down at the small Huahine airport, where we were met by a representative from Te Tiare Beach Resort (now a member of the Pearl Resort group of properties). A 10-minute van ride and 20-minute boat cruise later, we arrived at gorgeous Te Tiare. After checking in while sipping on yummy tropical cocktails, we were taken to our room--a Deep Overwater Bungalow. Spacious and well-appointed, these feature a king-size or 2 twin beds, a large bathroom with separate shower and spa bathtub, walk-in closet, and sitting area with flat-screen tv, wet bar, and minibar. The large deck had a sheltered area with an L-shaped bench and coffee table, as well as 2 lounge chairs for soaking up the sun. A short wooden staircase leads down to an outdoor shower platform, and a ladder leads from there into the stunning blue water.



Besides overwater bungalows, the resort also features garden, beachfront, and lagoon (partially over the water) bungalows. All are similarly appointed, with the main difference being the location of each category. The overwater bungalows are also the only accommodations that currently feature flat-screen televisions and bathtubs. All categories are lovely, and each has much to recommend it! For the most privacy, great value, and a lush setting, I recommend the garden bungalows. If you prefer to be right on the beach, the beachfront bungalows will of course be your best bet. To have the feel over an overwater bungalow but are on a tight budget, the lagoon bungalows are wonderful, and place you just steps from the beach.



A picture is worth 1000 words, so here are a few from around the grounds of the resort...













The snorkeling was not a good while we were there as it can be, due to rain and some strong winds stirring up the water during our stay. However, the water was still beautiful, and we were still able to see a good number of brightly colored tropical fish. There's a lot of coral around the overwater bungalows, making it an excellent place to snorkel under normal conditions.



The service was excellent, with every member of the staff we encountered being very friendly and eager to assist. The resort offers 2 restaurants--Ari'i, which is open for breakfast and dinner, and the Beach Bar, open for lunch. Depending on the season and resort occupancy levels, breakfast is either served buffet style or a la carte. Every meal we had at Te Tiare was very good, with quite a few excellent seafood selections and decadent desserts, as well as American/Continental selections such as cheeseburgers, club sandwiches, and steaks. The Hawaiki Nui Bar is situated next to Ari'i and offers beautiful views over the water.



The town of Fare is small, with just a few shops and small snack stands, and a bar/restaurant overlooking the water at one end. We did rent a car one day, and spent several hours exploring the 2 islands that make up Huahine (Huahine Iti and Huahine Nui). Unfortunately, Huahine's famous sacred blue-eyed, long-eared eels did not want to make an appearance for us, but maybe next time!









Overall, I would highly recommend staying on Huahine. It's truly a gorgeous island, lush and mountainous, similar to Moorea. And Te Tiare is a fantastic resort, as well as an excellent value in French Polynesia!

After 2 nights at Te Tiare, we left early in the morning to fly to Raiatea, where we were spending a night before heading by boat to Raiatea's sister island of Tahaa.



Upon landing in Raiatea, we were met by the driver for the Raiatea Hawaiki Nui (also a part of Pearl Resorts), and arrived there after a short ride. The Hawaiki Nui is a smaller property than the other Pearl Resorts, and not as luxurious. However, it is a good bit less expensive than the others, and can be a good value for those looking to spend more time diving or sightseeing and less time at the resort itself.



We stayed in a premium overwater bungalow, which feature a king or 2 double beds, along with a single-size sofa bed. A glass panel set into the floor allows views of the lagoon below. The bathroom features an open shower, and the deck offers a table and chairs, along with 2 lounge chairs. A ladder leads down into the water for those who would like to snorkel right off the deck. Beautiful multi-hued coral attracts thousands of brightly colored fish under and around the overwater bungalows.




The Hawaiki Nui also offers standard overwater bungalows (exactly the same as the premium overwaters, just with a slightly different location), as well as lagoon bungalows (halfway over the water), garden bungalows, and garden rooms. The garden bungalows are set back just a bit from the water, and feature a sunken bathroom with a great shower that gives the feel of being outdoors, but with the privacy of being inside. The garden rooms are all attached in a row of 8, just a bit smaller than the other accommodations at the resort, but still airy and comfortable. Each has its own small deck with a table and 2 lounge chairs.











Service here was friendly and prompt, and the food was very good, though just as pricey as anywhere else in French Polynesia. There is one restaurant, offering both indoor and outdoor seating. A breakfast buffet features fruit, cereals, breads/pastries, and meats and cheeses, and eggs can be ordered a la carte. I thought the garden vegetable omelet was particularly good. Lunch and dinner are served a la carte, and the bar in the restaurant offers several happy hour specials.

Although it does not feature a beach, the resort has a small motu to which it offers complimentary transfers. There is also a lovely pool overlooking the harbor. One unique activity the Hawaiki Nui offers is glass bottomed kayaks--great for getting exercise while enjoying the amazing coral and tropical fish below you!







We did a half day "Trucky Tour" of the island with Christian Millecam, enjoying the scenery (including quite a few waterfalls), and visiting a botanical garden, the largest marae (ancient sacred site)in French Polynesia, and the main town.













The next morning, we were taken back to the airport to meet up with our boat transfer over to Le Tahaa Island Resort & Spa (yet another Pearl Resorts property!), where we were spending 2 nights. A representative from Le Tahaa met us at the airport, and we settled into the very comfortable boat for the 30 minute or so ride to Tahaa. Unfortunately, the weather was not very good on the trip from Raiatea to Tahaa, so we missed out on the usually spectacular views on the way there. Luckily, it was beautiful on the way back 2 days later, so we were able to enjoy the scenery then!









Le Tahaa is on one of the motus (tiny coral islands) that surround Tahaa's lagoon, with a beautiful view of the main island, as well as of Bora Bora in the distance. A super-luxury property, it has been a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux collection since 2004. With its stunning location, wonderful staff, delectable cuisine, and gorgeous accommodations, it absolutely lives up to expectations.







After checking in and enjoying a fruity drink served in a coconut shell, we were taken to our Tahaa View Overwater Bungalow. Beautifully appointed, with king size beds, lounging sofa, window seat overloooking the lagoon, and spacious bathroom with double vanities, coral and marble shower with spa tub, and water closet, Le Tahaa's overwater bungalows are some of the very best in all of French Polynesia. At the foot of the bed you'll find a glass topped bench looking down into the lagoon, which can be opened to feed the fish below. Another viewing/feeding window is placed behind the large spa tub in the bathroom. A large deck offers a cushioned, L-shaped bench and a table underneath a thatched cover with electric lights and fan, as well as 2 very comfortable cushioned lounge chairs. A few steps down is a small platform with rinsing shower, and from there a ladder leads straight into the lagoon.








There are 4 categories of overwater bungalows at Le Tahaa, but all are the same with the exception of the view and pontoon location. The resort also offers stunning Beach Villas with private pool and outdoor soaking tub off the bathroom, and 2 Royal Beach Villas with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms apiece (each with private outdoor soaking tub) and a private pool.







A few steps off the beach at Le Tahaa is a coral garden that makes for a wonderful drift snorkel. I highly recommend doing this at least once--but would avoid the late afternoon, when many fish feed, or you may end up with a few nips on your ankles!










We were sad to leave Le Tahaa when our stay had come to an end, but looking forward to getting to Tahiti for the actual Tahiti Tiare Agent Conference! Our flight between Raiatea and Tahiti did have a stop, which is not always the most desirable option when flying. However, things are a bit different when the stop is in Bora Bora, allowing for incredible aerial views of the island and its famed lagoon!







Neither Janelle nor I had stayed at the Radisson Plaza on Tahiti before, so we were pleased to get to experience a new resort. It's a lovely property, though a bit more "hotel-like" than many of the other resorts in French Polynesia, consisting as it does of several interconnected 5-story buildings rather than the bungalows often associated with resorts in the islands. However, this is very typical for properties on Tahiti itself, with the Intercontinental Tahiti and the Le Meridien Tahiti being the only international-class resorts on the island that offer overwater bungalows in addition to hotel rooms in the main buildings.

Our Deluxe Ocean View Suite was large and very comfortable, with 2 double beds, a spacious sitting area, bathroom with separate spa tub and shower, and large balcony with a beautiful view of the water. All rooms at the Radisson have direct views of the ocean, long stretch of black sand beach, and most also enjoy a view of the island of Moorea in the distance.










After dropping our bags off in our room, we headed down to the resort's meeting rooms for the opening of the conference. Product updates and a trade show followed, and a cocktail reception rounded out the day. Everything we ate at the Radisson was excellent, but I must say that the hors d'oeuvres they served at the cocktail hours and conference breaks really shone--so imaginative and delicious! Dinner that night was at the Hilton Tahiti, formerly the Sheraton Tahiti. It's a very nice property with a convenient location for those just spending a night in Tahiti before heading to another island, and will be even better once the planned renovations are completed.

The next day started with a delicious buffet breakfast at Hiti Mahana, the Radisson's restaurant overlooking the ocean and pool. The rest of the day consisted of forums and workshops on various cultural, activity/excursion, and other French Polynesia-related topics. Very informative and interesting! A cocktail hour with a fantastic surprise Tahitian dance show at the Lafayette Bar at the Radisson followed--of course, this is the one time the whole trip I did not have my camera with me! Big sigh for missing such a great photo op.

The "farewell" dinner was held at the Intercontinental Resort Tahiti, my personal favorite property on the island. It's large, with beautiful grounds, incredible swimming pools that look out over the sea to Moorea, and a wonderful restaurant. They had set up a lovely buffet dinner for the conference attendees on the lawn near the infinity pool, right by the ocean. A wonderful Tahitian dance and music performance entertained us during dinner--at least until the rain began! But we were all having such a good time that when a vote was taken, the overwhelming majority of us voted to stay outside rather than heading in. Luckily, the rain cleared up shortly thereafter, allowing us to finish out the dinner under starry skies.

The next morning was our last in the islands, as our flight back to Los Angeles was scheduled for that evening. After a few hours by the Radisson's beautiful pool, we headed into Papeete on the Radisson's afternoon shuttle (they also run one in the morning; the shuttle is complimentary for resort guests)to do some shopping. A few hours in Le Marche (a huge market that selling food, clothing, souvenirs, home furnishings, and a lot more) and quite a few French Polynesian francs later, we went back to the Radisson, packed up, and headed for the airport. (Tip - always make sure to arrive at PPT at least several hours before your flight, as check in tends to take a very long time, and lines are long.)














We were sad to be leaving paradise, but kept our spirits up by beginning to plan our next French Polynesia adventure! Stay tuned...






Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Back to French Polynesia!



I'm leaving today for a conference in FP for Tahiti Tiare agents (the official French Polynesia specialist program for travel agents), and can't wait! This will be my third visit to the Tahitian islands, and I would say the third time's a charm. However, that would indicate that the first 2 times (my honeymoon and 2nd anniversary trip) were not, when nothing could be further from the truth! Each trip brings amazing new experiences and sights, and I look forward to visiting French Polynesia many more times in the future.

This time, I'll be staying on 4 islands over the course of a week--Tahiti, Raiatea, Huahine, and Tahaa. A whirlwind trip, but well worth it! Of those 4 islands, I've only stayed on Tahiti previously (my earlier trips have also included stays on Moorea, Bora Bora, and Tikehau), so I'm very much looking forward to experiencing 3 new islands and a new resort on Tahiti!

I'll be taking about a million pictures and definitely writing a lengthy review of the trip when I return, and will post all of that here in the next couple of weeks!

Tuesday, March 03, 2009

Gorgeous new overwater bungalow find



Well, new to me at least (it appears to have been in business since at least 2005)! I stumbled across Sipadan-Kapalai Island Resort in Malaysia rather randomly during a Flickr search, and fell in love. It appears that getting there would be an adventure unto itself, and the bungalows are not super-luxe. However, the area is stunning, the snorkeling and diving look unbelievable, and the OWBs are lovely, spacious, and look out over insanely clear water. I especially adore the way they've put a giant window right next to the bathtub, so you can gaze out over the sea while you bathe. While it's not incredibly cheap for Southeast Asia, the resort is an absolute steal compared to what you'd pay for an OWB in French Polynesia or the Maldives! For about $1000US (non-divers) or $1250US (divers), you can have a 3 night stay for 2 people, including accommodation, meals, some drinks, transfers, and tons of dives (the last only if you get the dive package, of course).

The hotel's website is not particularly user-friendly or informative, but here is the tripadvisor link, which has tons of great pictures and information: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g303996-d454985-Reviews-Sipadan_Kapalai_Island_Resort-Pulau_Sipadan_Sabah.html

Also check out S-KIR's sister resort, Lankayan Island Dive Resort. No OWBs, but simply stunning location, with spacious bungalows right on the beach!
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g303997-d637481-Reviews-Lankayan_Island_Dive_Resort-Sandakan_Sabah.html


Looks like Malaysia just moved even higher on my "must-visit SOON" list!

Friday, February 20, 2009

Panama reviews and photos

Bob and I always take a trip over Labor Day week, to take advantage of the "free" day off (anything to use less vacation time!) This year, Panama was the chosen destination for two reasons. First, we (Bob especially) had been talking about going there for awhile. We're big fans of Central America, but had already been to Belize and Costa Rica, and wanted something a bit "beachier" than Guatemala or El Salvador. Honduras and Nicaragua were the other options we considered for this trip, but the fact that we were able to get business class seats with Skymiles to Panama sealed the deal!

Itinerary:
1 night Panama City at the Albrook Inn(our flight landed at 9PM and our flight to the San Blas left the next morning at 6AM, so this was a very short stay) http://albrookinn.com/index.php/en/

3 nights San Blas Islands (aka Comarca Kuna Yala)at Yandup http://www.yandupisland.com/yeng/plans.htm

1 night Panama City at the Veneto

http://www.wyndham.com/hotels/PTYWV/main.wnt

4 nights Bocas Del Toro at Popa Paradise
http://www.popaparadisebeachresort.com/

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/ag99ez


The trip was awesome--great weather, so many gorgeous beaches, tons of lobster meals...we loved it! I'm already trying to figure out when we can get back down to Bocas del Toro for at least a long weekend.

The first night we got in from ATL at about 10PM and were leaving at 5AM the next morning for the airport to fly to the San Blas. After landing in Panama City and clearing customs, we jumped in a cab (about $25) and arrived at the Albrook Inn around 11PM. The room at the Albrook was spacious enough, and the location is very good for catching an early morning flight. However, when we arrived they had lost/never noted our reservation (even though we had a full confirmation) and had nothing left in our room category. They tried to get us to pay to upgrade, but we ended up having to wait for the manager to show up for his shift about an hour later (it was originally supposed to be about 15 minutes, or we would have just gone ahead and paid for the upgrade, I guess, as the wait really cut into our sleeping time!) to upgrade us for free since it was their mistake. Anyway, looking back over the tripadvisor reviews of the hotel, I can see that this is not the first time this has happened, and some people were turned away entirely, so I would really not recommend this hotel. Anyway. after a few hours of sleep and a requested wake-up call that never came (good thing Bob set his watch!), it was time to head out for our flight to Playon Chico in the San Blas islands.

The trip got much better upon arrival in Playon Chico! The San Blas are just stunning--complete tropical paradise. We stayed at Yandup Lodge (http://www.yandupisland.com/yeng/plans.htm). It is rustic to say the least, but all the lodges in the SB are, and Yandup seemed to be the best of the bunch. For slightly more luxury, there is Coral Lodge, which is just past the boundary of the Kuna Yala territory. We looked into staying there, but it seemed pretty overpriced considering the somewhat mixed reviews, and they force you to take a 7 or so-hour tour right after landing at 6:30AM. No thanks! Plus, going to that area and staying in a resort not owned by the Kuna people seems like it kind of misses the point.

Anyway, we were in an overwater cabana at Yandup. They're all wood and bamboo construction, with very open bamboo walls. There's a fan in the room rather than a/c, but the cabana design lets such great sea breezes in that we stayed cool all night. There's a private bathroom with real plumbing (I can deal with some "rustic-ness", but a real toilet is a MUST!) and a shower. A cold water shower. With the barest trickle of water. Which sometimes stops entirely when you're all lathered up. (Though it generally starts up again within a couple of minutes). Honestly, after being out in the heat of the day and in a sun-warmed cabana, a cool water shower felt great. And while obviously I would have preferred more water pressure, it really was not a big deal at all.

There's a deck that wraps around the whole bungalow, with 2 hammocks on the back side facing the sea and the lush mainland and the local community. The water is crystal clear, and Yandup has a small but lovely private beach. It must have been jellyfish season though, b/c we saw tons in the waters both in the San Blas and BDT.

Everyone was very friendly, even though communication was a bit difficult as DH and I speak fairly limited Spanish, and the Kuna staff spoke basically no English and limited Spanish (they grow up learning their native language rather than Spanish). DH and I got a huge kick out of it though when he was using our camcorder to film a boat ride and one of our guides. This guy literally did not seem to know a word of English, but he was hamming up up for the camera, pointed to it, then to himself and asked "Internet? YouTube?" LOL He was smiling for the rest of the boat ride, saying over and over something about being "famosa en youtube". Loved it :)

The food was overall good, the only exception being the whole fished served for 2 days in a row with trillions of tiny bones, teeth, and eyes still staring up at you. I love seafood, but prefer not to have to make eye contact before eating it :) But the rest of the meals were very good--lobster, prawn, and crab dishes for dinner and for lunch the 3rd day, eggs and bread and fruit or these really yummy local-style pancakes for breakfast. And fresh local fruit for dessert every day. I would definitely recommend taking snacks though (we took trail mix, granola bars, and pb cheese crackers) b/c if you don't like what they serve, you don't eat, and the portions tend to be fairly small anyway, especially with the appetite sea air tends to work up in people. Coffee and juice were free with breakfast, water with the other meals. Wine was $12/bottle (Concho Y Toro was the brand), beers and soft drinks were $1.50 or $2, and mixed drinks were $3.

Each morning around 9:30 they take you to a deserted beach on a tiny island in the area for a couple of hours, then bring you back in time for lunch.

After lunch, there's some free time before the 4PM cultural or environmental tour (the 3 while we were there were a mangrove visit, visit to the local community, and river/fishing tour). With all the scheduling and rustic cabins, it sort of felt like adult summer camp. But in a good way--at camp we were never allowed to polish off a bottle of wine between lunch and the afternoon activity. Or have boys in our cabin. ;) And it keeps you from having to ponder the age-old vacation question "what should we do now?"

After dinner each night (dinner starts at 6:30-7ish), we came back to the cabin, read for a bit, then went to bed. I think we may have actually been asleep before 8PM one night, since we had been getting up around 6AM.

There were very few other people there with us, so we had a couple of tours/beaches to ourselves, which was nice. DH's favorite was the river/fishing tour, since he loves to fish. We also saw a saltwater croc in the river, which was cool. My favorite was probably the local community tour, b/c I loved seeing the way they live and interacting with the children. They do charge $1 pp to take their picture, so be sure to take lots of ones with you if you go!

The one thing that is sad to see is how much trash there is in the water and along some of these other-wise perfect, postcard beaches. I guess they really don't have a good system for getting rid of trash, so it just send up in the water and then washed up along the beaches. Yandup's staff cleans theirs every day, but it was piled high on some of the unpopulated islands.

After 3 great nights in the San Blas, we caught the daily morning flight back to Panama City. This time we stayed at the Veneto by Wyndham, which was nice but nothing to write home about. Decent rooms, though small, and a nice pool. Be sure to stay away from the margaritas served by the pool bar, which were the worst things I've ever tasted. Honestly, we did not particularly love Panama City. Went and saw the Canal, Miraflores Locks and Visitors Center. Were going to go to Casco Viejo, but it was rainy with some thunder and lightening and we didn't want to get caught in a storm down there, in a not-super-secure area where it's apparently hard to get a cab even at the best of times. Next time, though! It of course depends on your interests, but I would say that if planned out well, one full day in Panama City itself would be plenty. If we'd had more time there, we would have done some day trips outside the city--Gatun Lake/Monkey Island, Embrera Indian visit, a national park, etc.

After Panama City, we took another early-morning flight to Bocas del Toro. If you could fit it in to your itinerary, this can be a very fun place to visit! November is rainy season (but then, pretty much the entire year is rainy season in BdT--Sept/Oct. and Mar/Apr are supposed to be driest, but it can rain at any point.

We stayed at a brand-new resort called Popa Paradise, which was really beautiful but which I would not recommend at this point for several reasons. *Disclaimer - it has been some months since we stayed at Popa, and the few reviews on tripadvisor.com have been pretty positive, so many of the issues I'll describe below may have been taken care of by now.*

It was certainly not all bad--we stayed in a beachfront cottage (#6), which was wonderful--best location the the property, we thought, and the cottages are beautifully decorated. The grounds of the resort are lovely and lush, great pool and swim-up bar, and some absolutely gorgeous touches--mosaics, carvings, sculptures, and imported Balinese furniture around the main building (clubhouse/dining area). From the other resorts we saw in and around BdT, Popa is definitely the most luxurious in terms of accommodations. The facilities were almost finished, though they still had some work to do--the spa/massage area was not ready yet, and some work is still being completed on a couple of the cottages and on the owner's villa.

However, management was inexperienced and downright poor in some aspects, and there are quite a few issues in terms of booking excursions (good luck doing so, unless it fits into their schedule, and don't expect that they will be willing to help with any information beforehand, or even when you're there--even if you ask more than once).

The food was good overall but very inconsistent. I believe the website states that there are buffets for each meal, but this is not the case. Honestly, this didn't bother us, as we are not buffet fans, but I think they need to be a little more clear about what the dining situation actually is. There's no menu--you pretty much have to just come up with something you'd like to eat for breakfast, and they'll either make it for you or tell you they can't. Again, nice if you want something they can make, but a little irritating if you have to go through several options before hitting on something they can prepare. For lunch, they give you a couple of options (generally lobster or other "catch of the day" or chicken) and a couple of preparation and side options (rice, potatoes).

Dinner was the most inconsistent. For the first couple of days we were there, some staff members were preparing the food. Again, it was good, but nothing too inventive and got pretty repetitive. The last day and a half we were there, an outside chef was brought in (she apparently just comes on weekends). The food got better at that point, and changed up a bit, but the inconsistency was odd. This may be nitpicky, but at $50 for food per day per person* in BdT, and considering that you are pretty much stuck at the resort for most/all meals, we felt that at least some kind of salad/appetizer should have been offered with dinner, and that there should have been at least some choice of vegetables available as well.

The rates on the website were not the ones they gave us when you try to make a reservation. Their explanation was that they just haven't updated their website yet, and some nonsense about guests not having to pay tax on meals (how 10% on the food portion of the room rates makes paying an extra $100 a good deal, I don't know!). I just checked the website, and it looks like the rates have still not been changed 6 months later, so I'm curious as to whether they're now honoring the internet rates or still playing a bait-and-switch game on those.

The website also fudges a bit when it comes to travel time/options into town. It's more like a 45-minute ride, not the 20-25 minutes they claim. And there are no set times of day they go--some days they don't go at all, others they do at whatever time works for them. And while we were told via email before our trip that we could pay extra to go outside of "scheduled" hours, once we arrived this promise was disregarded. It was also stated that the "set" trips to town are complimentary--also not true (though they did take it off our bill when we questioned them about it).

The waiter and bartender were delightful young men with a good grasp of English, quick smiles, and a willingness to help. Rusty, the bartender, made some amazing cocktails, and we very much enjoying speaking to him and our waiter Martine about their lives. Unfortunately, no one has taken the time to teach Martine or other staff members how to properly/smoothly do their jobs at a "luxury-resort" level. This did not bother us a bit, but we felt bad that he obviously felt awkward not knowing what he was supposed to do. And we thought that the way the managers (husband-and-wife team Jon and Mary, who are pretty new at the hotel management game, and it shows) kept making fun of him or snapping at him in front of guests when he did something incorrectly was extremely unkind and unprofessional, as well as completely unhelpful.

The rest of the staff ranged from vaguely friendly to downright surly, but there wasn't much contact with them anyway (aside from the managers, who we had a lot of contact with, whose attitudes also were anywhere from friendly to irritable/rude). My husband and I both agreed that we pretty much were made to feel that we were being tolerated/were intruding at a stranger's home. I don't think it was anything personal--it just seemed as though the managers would have preferred not to have to deal with any guests whatsoever.

The beach is smallish but pretty, with clear water and some of the best shelling I've ever seen. While we were there, we didn't do any snorkeling/swimming though, due to the very high concentration of jellyfish in the water (this was not limited to Popa, though--we encountered the same issue in other areas of BdT, as well as in the San Blas islands, where we'd spent a few nights earlier in the trip). I think they tend to be seasonal, though, so hopefully they will not be an issue when you're there!

I really do hate to sound negative or nit-picky about the resort, but I really felt like it was so poorly managed/organized as to really not be anywhere near as great an experience as it could/should be. And we felt very misled as to the current state of the resort--even after asking straight out when making the reservation whether it was fully open with all the amenities and excursion options available, we were not given the truth. It was really not ready for guests, and may not be for quite a while in terms of the promises made on the website. Had we been told the truth and thus able to adjust our expectations somewhat, the experience likely would have been better.

After meeting the owner, who showed up our last day, my husband and I both agreed that it seems like this resort is just a vanity project for him rather than a property he's really interested in making a great destination resort. But my hope is that they'll "get it together" at some point and really bring Popa to its full potential.

At the end of the day, I would say it really depends on what you're looking for. If you just want to be in the general BdT area, want a very nice cottage, a pool, etc., and don't care much about being able to do tours, and are not too picky about service or variety of food, Popa is not a bad option at all. But if you do want to really have some degree of flexibility to see and do what you want/when you want, and really experience more of what the area has to offer, another resort might be a better fit.

If you do go to BdT, I would recommend staying in one of the hotels right on the water in Bocas Town, or across the way on Isla Carnero or Isla Bastimentos, where you can easily get water taxis back and forth and really take full advantage of what BDT has to offer!

As far as excursions while we were in BdT, we did a few different things. One day we borrowed a kayak and paddled around the island a bit, which was fun even in the rain! We also explored Bocas Town a bit and took the bus up to Playa del Drago. I would recommend that you find out about the tides before doing this, since it's a long ride and if the tide is in, there's really no beach to speak of. We still enjoyed seeing it though, and had an enjoyable lunch at the restaurant up there. My only regret is that we didn't realize we were only about a 15 minute walk from the famous starfish beach until it was too late--we had to catch the bus back to Bocas Town right then if we were going to be able to make it to Red Frog Beach and back before it was time for us to be picked up and take back to Popa.

We hired a boat from Bocas Town to Red Frog Beach, which I think was around $20 + tip round-trip for both of us. Red Frog Beach is a must-see in BdT, although the only red frog we actually saw was in the palm of a small local boy's hand! At least we saw that one, though, and we had a great time hanging out on the beach, drinking fruity concoctions from the beach bar!

Our favorite excursion in BdT was going to the Zapatilla Cayes--absolutely stunning! We were dropped off on Zapatilla 2 for a few hours with a picnic lunch, and had the whole island to ourselves after the tour boats left 10-15 minutes after our arrival. It seems as though most of the organized tours go to the island in the morning and leave around lunchtime, so I suggest hiring a private boat or taking your resort excursion if possible, and going in the afternoon if you'd like to have more privacy.

Overall, we loved Panama, would go back to the San Blas or BdT in a heartbeat, and would love to explore some other areas of the country as well!

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Greece photos and reviews!

Athens: 1 night, Divani Palace Acropolis Hotel
photos: http://tinyurl.com/2tqck8

We were very happy with this hotel. Originally I'd wanted to stay at the Grande Bretagne, but kept going back and forth on whether it was worth the price, and then it got booked up so was no longer an option anyway. But I actually ended up being glad we stayed at the DPA instead. The location was better than the GB in my opinion (walking distance to the Plaka and Acropolis) and it was about 1/3 of the price. Our deluxe room (the least-expensive category) was smallish but not tiny (especially by European hotel rooms standards) and had a small balcony with a view of the Acropolis on one side. The only thing I wasn't really happy with at the DPA were the high food and drink prices--pretty much on par with the GB, which is a 5*hotel (I'd say DPA is about a 3.5*). But it seemed like that was just how it was in Athens, and the only time we ate there was lunch that day anyway, so not really a big deal.

Honestly, we thought 1 night in Athens was plenty, but it really depends on how big a history buff you are. But since we got in in the morning, had that afternoon and night and the next day until about 3:30 to sight-see and didn't miss anything we wanted to see. The first day/night we walked around the Plaka and had drinks at the rooftop bar at the Grande Bretagne (highly recommend doing this--the view of the Acropolis at night is beautiful, and it's a fun place to get dressed up and go.) and dinner at a sidewalk cafe we stumbled upon.

The second day we got up fairly early, had the best Greek yogurt ever (it was almost like whipped cream--amazing!) at a little place in the Plaka (really should have written down the name), then climbed up to the Acropolis and walked around up there for awhile. I will say, it was insanely hot and crowded. But still, you can't go to Greece and miss it! My advice would be to go VERY early in the morning--walk up and plan to be at the ticket booth before it even opens if you're there during the summertime. Sure it will probably still be crowded even then, but less so, and hopefully less hot first thing in the morning! After that we looked in a few shops between there and our hotel, then spent the rest of our time lounging by the hotel pool.

Athens to Naxos

Since this trip was planned fairly last minute (less than 6 weeks in advance, in high season), the flights from Athens to Naxos were all booked up. So we ended up taking the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 2 ferry to Naxos. I booked our ferries here: http://www.gtp.gr/ We went with business class, because the price difference between that and economy was fairly negligible. We were glad we did, b/c the economy section looked like what you find in coach on an airplane and was packed, whereas business was almost empty, had larger seats and tables to put your food and drinks on.The ferry took about 4 hours, which was a lot longer than the flight would have taken, but was also only about 1/2 the price.

Naxos : 4 nights, Muses Suites
photos: http://tinyurl.com/3deobw

When we arrived in Naxos, it was about 9:30PM. Our hotel had arranged for us to be picked up at the ferry port, which ended up being a bit iffy. On one hand, there were not tons of taxis available at that hour, but we also ended up crunched with 2 sweaty (though friendly!) strangers (who were staying at a different hotel) in the backseat of a small car, so it was not the most comfortable ride ever.

We stayed at Muses Suites (http://www.themuses.gr/), which is the newer section of Athina Studios (http://www.studiosathina.gr/) with larger accommodations. We had the Erato Suite, which I think was the largest/nicest 1-bedroom, and it was still pretty reasonably priced. the location is great--right on Plaka Beach (technically, there's a road separating the property from the beach, but this is the case with pretty much every hotel on the island). We really liked staying in that area because it was much quieter/less crowded than Naxos Town, but still had several restaurants and a little grocery store right next door and a few within walking distance down the road. And the beach was gorgeous, with really clear bright blue water! It's definitely not a full service resort, but does have a pool and a front desk (run by Athina herself) where you can arrange tours. Each morning, coffee and fresh baked goodies (coffee cakes, muffins, etc.) are available next to the front desk (included in the room rate). When you check in, you are also presented with a bottle of wine with an Athina Studios label, which was a nice touch.

The suite itself was great, with 3 balconies (a small one off the bedroom and another small one off the living room, and a huge one off the other side of the living room, overlooking the water). It was well-appointed with a tiny kitchenette, living room with sofa and coffee table and chairs, bedroom with pretty and reasonably comfy bed, and a small bathroom (shower only). The only issue we had was that you only get 4 towels (2 bath, 2 beach) for your entire stay, so have to hang them up to dry after each use. This is for conservation purposes, and is fairly common on dry Naxos. Still, we didn't realize this until we asked Athina for new towels our 2nd day, and she was not totally thrilled to give us new ones. Her attitude then was the only thing we didn't really like about our stay there (she was a little snippy a couple of other times as well, but it really had a negligible effect on our stay). All in all, we were very pleased with our choice, and Naxos was hands down our favorite destination in Greece!

We rented a dune buggy for 2 days, and had an absolute blast exploring the island. Until one of the back wheels fell off (yes, seriously) at about 9PM our last night on a long, dark, deserted stretch of road. Luckily, there was a hostel just down the road, and they let us use their phone to call the rental place to come pick us up. Apparently this is not an unusual occurrence, as the rental rep did not seem the least bit surprised and had some choice words about the manufacturer of that particular type of buggy. But I still would not hesitate to rent one again--riding around in it was definitely a highlight of our trip, you just have to be careful not to be too rough with it. Our favorite thing was driving down the road along the beach until we came to an area with tiny secluded coves in the rock down the side of a small cliff. Very nice to climb down, find one that was deserted, and stretch out in our own little area with no one else around!

Santorini: 3 nights Astra Apartments

photos: http://tinyurl.com/38fqzb


We took a ferry from Naxos to Santorini (there was no flight between the 2 islands), booked through the same website we booked the Athens-Naxos ferry. It was 4-5 hours--the "slow boat". We had originally been booked on a smaller boat that took about 1/2 as long, but the night before, we were told it had been cancelled due to high winds in the area. Had to switch our tickets at an office in Naxos Town, and once we arrived in Santorini, found out the original boat had left as scheduled after all. Typical! When we got to Santorini, our scheduled pickup from Astra was nowhere to be found. After an hour and a half of waiting and trying to get through to the hotel, a driver finally showed up. We would have just taken a cab, but they only seem to show up right around the time a boat docks, so by the time we started looking for one, there were none to be found. Anyway, the Astra driver finally got there, and it was never quite clear what caused the disconnect. We were just happy to get out of the blazing sun at that point, though, so didn't press the issue!

In Santorini, we stayed at Astra Apartments (http://www.astra-apartments.com/), which was wonderful. We had a superior apartment, which was around $300E a night--more expensive than the standard apartment, but that was all they had left when we booked. We were in #5, which I had requested in advance, and were very happy with the room! It had what we considered to be the best location on the property, up it's own private staircase over looking the infinity pool, and beyond that, the caldera. It was spacious, with another tiny kitchenette with breakfast table, sitting area, bathroom that was small but decorated with beautiful blue tile work and paint, and a nicely sized bedroom. There were 2 balconies, both with chairs and a table--one right outside the front door, and 1 off the bedroom.

A full breakfast was delivered to the room each morning (you just had to fill out a card with your choices the night before), and it was delicious! They even brought it earlier than they usually begin serving on the morning we checked out, as we had to leave very early in the morning for our flight back to Athens. There's no restaurant on the premises, but you can order room service. We only tried a couple of sandwiches, but they were very tasty and fresh.

My only real complaint about Astra is that due to the small size of the pool area, there are not nearly enough loungers to accommodate everyone who would like to use one, especially since many people "save" them at the crack of dawn with a towel, book, etc. But when you can get one, they're great, and sitting with a glass of wine by the pool looking out at the sunset is an experience that's hard to top!

Astra is in Imerovigli, which is less well known than the towns Oia and Fira, but is located between the 2. If you want more of the party scene, Fira is probably the best choice, and many people think Oia is the most beautiful part of the island (most of the typical "Santorini scene" photos you see are taken here). But after spending time in all these areas, but a couple of others on the island, we were very happy we stayed in Imerovigli. It's quiet, gorgeous, centrally located, and we actually thought the sunsets were better from Astra/Imero than from Oia, which tends to be celebrated for it's sunsets!

We rented a car for 24 hours and explored the island, driving down to one of the beaches (Perivolas) for some sunbathing and lunch, then made it to Oia to walk around, take pictures, and view the sunset. Oia gets incredibly crowded at this time of day, so if you want a good seat at a restaurant with a great sunset view, I highly recommend booking ahead of time. We didn't and just happened to luck into the last table at a restaurant with a great view.

The next morning, we took the car and went down to the port of Ammoundi, which is the famous harbor often shown in pictures of Santorini. Not much going on there, but made for a good photo op! Later that day, we went on a day/sunset volcano cruise. Honestly, it ended up being sort of a rip-off. Overpriced, overcrowded, very touristy and just not a great value all around, especially as the "included drinks" ended up being a scam--the boxed wine with appetizers before sunset was free, but all the other drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) during the day--the cruise started around noon, from what I recall--were $5Euros+ each. I kind of wished we'd done a tour and tasting at one of the wineries and/or just hung out at Astra's pool and watched the sunset from there instead. Maybe next time! Note: I hate to sound so negative, but just wanted to give you fair warning on the cruise, as I really was disappointed and did feel like we'd sort of wasted the day. In fairness, we did meet some nice people on the cruise, and swimming out to the warm thermal springs was an adventure!

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Countries whose citizens have viewed my blog

One of my favorite things about keeping this blog is going to the visitor counter and seeing what countries readers have come from. I am constantly amazed and gratified to see the diversity of countries from where this blog is viewed. It's always especially exciting to see a new country listed--right now I am at a total of 86, but hope to hit 100 fairly soon--sort of a blog version of the famous Traveler's Century Club! Thanks so much for visiting, and check back often for new reviews, photos, and travel information!

Where have viewers come from so far?

Angola
Argentina
Australia
Austria

Bahrain
Belgium
Belize
Bolivia
Brazil

Canada
China
Chile
Costa Rica
Cote D'ivoire
Croatia
Czech Republic

Denmark
Dijibouti

Ecuador
Egypt
El Salvador

Fiji
Finland
France
French Polynesia

Georgia
Germany
Greece
Guatemala

Honduras
Hong Kong
Hungary

India
Indonesia
Iraq
Ireland
Israel
Italy

Japan
Jordan

Korea, Republic of

Laos
Lebanon
Lithuania
Luxembourg

Macau
Malaysia
Mauritius
Mexico
Montenegro

Netherlands
New Zealand
Nicaragua
Nigeria
Northern Mariana Islands
Norway

Oman

Panama
Pakistan
Peru
Philippines
Poland
Portugal

Qatar

Romania
Russian Federation

San Tome and Principe
Saudi Arabia
Serbia
Singapore
Slovenia
South Africa
Spain
Sri Lanka
Sweden
Switzerland

Taiwan
Thailand
Trinidad & Tobago
Tunisia
Turkey

United Arab Emirates
United Kingdom
United States

Venezuela
Vietnam

Monday, February 11, 2008

What to pack in your carry-on

Note: I would like to qualify this list with the disclaimer that I don't take all of these items on every flight. However, that would be mostly untrue. Any flight over about 4 hours, and my bag is stuffed like Santa's--I joke that one reason I got married is so that I wouldn't have to carry my own luggage anymore. If you are ever in an airport and see a man loaded down like a pack mule, it's quite likely my gallant husband.

*Cashmere travel blanket: Really, any travel blanket will work, though I love the way cashmere is soft and warm, but still lightweight and easy to pack. I got my travel blanket (really an oversize shawl/wrap years ago at Banana Republic, but am planning to "trade up" to one of these at some point: http://www.thepashminastore.com/Cashmere-Blankets-and-Throws-s/22.htm

This is a good lower-priced alternative (not cashmere, but supposed to be very soft and warm!): http://tinyurl.com/32eex3

*Neck pillow: There are multiple options for these in terms of fill and shape, and everyone has a different opinion on which work best. I've tried several kinds, and like this one best so far: http://tinyurl.com/297cqj
It's soft, smushy without ever getting too flat, and the drawstring pouch it comes with can be attached to the handles of your carryon, thus negating the need to make room for it in your bag.

*Ipod: great for enjoying music or just blocking out a talkative seatmate

*Socks: I like kneelength pairs that are a bit snug--keep your feet warm and also keep swelling down by applying pressure. They can also help prevent clots that lead to DVT, which can be deadly (for more info, go to http://www.dvt.net/) And of course, remember to get up and walk around and do some leg excercises every few hours as well.

*Slippers: Great for walking to the bathroom so you're not in there in your socks, or just for walking up and down the aisle to stretch your legs. I find that the free pairs offered in nicer hotels are perfect for this. Besides being comfortable and easy to pack since they're so thin, the rubber soles prevent icky seep through from wet airplane bathroom floors or that Mile High Mojito the guy in the seat next to you just knocked off his tray table.

*Armrest compatible headphones for the movie: Ssome airlines charge for these usually $2-$5 on domestic flights, though they tend to be free on international flights. Either way, hang onto your pairs to use on future flights.

*Books, magazines, crossword or Sudoku puzzle books: To keep your mind occupied! I also carry on my travel journal--great for writing down thoughts, impressions, expectations, etc. of the flight itself and the trip ahead of (or behind) me. My journal has a pocket where I stick our passports, boarding passes, etc., which makes it much easier to grab them when it's time to fill out customs declaration forms and entry documents (which require flight and passport # info).

*Portable DVD player and DVDs (CDs if you don't have an Ipod): Let's be honest here--9 times out of 10 you are not going to want to watch the movie they're showing on the plane. And if you have to go to the bathroom during the movie, you might miss the one good part. Take your own favorite DVDs and solve both problems. Not worth taking this on short flights but great for the longer journeys. These can also come in handy while on your trip. While I am an opponent of TV on vacation in general (though I do adore European commercials for their humor and frequent gratuitous nudity), when the power goes out right after dark (7:30 pm, in one case) during a tropical storm, it's nice to be able to finally catch up on the past season of Entourage.

*Eyemask: Mine is pink and black silk and has the words "Sleeping Beauty" embroidered on it (a gift from my mother-I'm not narcissitic enough to buy that for myself! Though apparently am narcissistic enough to wear it. haha). It always gets chuckles (ok, maybe those are snickers) from other passengers and FAs, but I love the softness of the silk against my face, and the black lining blocks out most light. There are of course thousands of other options, for those who lean towards the more minimalistic or are male. Be sure to buy a mask that fits snugly enough to stay in place without being too tight (must avoid airplane-seat-head!)

*Foam earplugs: nice to have when the guy next to your is snoring or that old lady across the aisle is howling with delight at the in-flight premiere of Cocoon.

*Moisturizer: The cabin air is very dry, so your skin will get quite dehydrated on longer flights. Smooth a bit of moisturizer on your face and hands every few hours, and you'll feel much more comfortable. Also very soothing to put a bit on your feet and ankles--but please perform this task in the restroom, so as not to gross out other passengers.

*Eyedrops/contact solution and case + extra contacts: Again, dry air = dry eyes. And I personally find it's easier to sleep (and gentler on my eyes in general) if I take out my contacts on a longer flight. I also pack an extra pair in my purse/carryon, since I've had a contact or 2 rip from the dry air.

*Purell Hand Sanitizer: because airports and planes are full of germs. Plus, it's a lot easier than trying to get into the bathroom to wash your hands at busy pre-meal times. And once you arrive at your destination, this stuff is great to use to wipe down the remote control, phone earpiece etc.

*Pen for crosswords, Sudoku, journal writing, and/or filling out customs declaration forms: The flight attendants may have one, but they will likely tell you they don't. If they do admit to there being a writing implement somewhere on the plane, you can bet that someone else is already using it...for the duration of the flight.

*Camera: You don't want to check cameras, as they can easily be broken or destroyed. Always carry these on with you. It's also nice to have it handy to take photos as you come in for a landing when traveling someplace scenic.

*Ziploc baggie: For cosmetics, toiletries, and any other gels or liquids. The bag can be up to quart size, and each container inside must be no more than 3 ounces. Here are the official guideline: http://www.tsa.gov/press/happenings/9-25_updated_passenger_guidance.shtm

*Jewelry: don't pack any valuables in checked baggage--they should all go in your carry on.

*Warm sweater/cardigan:just another layer to keep you warm, as it tends to get pretty cold on flights, especially near the exit rows.

*Change of clothing: Especially a bathing suit/cover-up if going to the beach! You'll be glad you packed this when your luggage is lost or delayed. Also good to pack a regular outfit if you are planning to or think you might get bumped from the flight. Most likely you won't be able to get your baggage back off the plane, and it's nice to be able to change clothes if you end up not getting on another flight til the next day!

*A few snacks:peanuts, granola bars, whatever. In case you get hungry between meals or don't want the plane food (assuming there is any, which there's generally not on domestic flights). We also buy a bottle or 2 of water right before we get on the plane. That way, we don't have to track down the FA everytime we want some water (plus I've noticed that many airlines no longer give out bottles of water--only cups).



***A useful website for all kinds of travel products: http://www.travelproducts.com

Saturday, February 09, 2008

See what the fish do when they think no one is watching...

I have always thought one of the coolest things ever would be to ride in a tiny submarine, exploring undersea reefs and wildlife. Yes, I could scubadive instead (if I ever get around to getting certified!), but I prefer the idea of being surrounded by metal and glass. The reason for this likely has something to do with too many viewings of Jaws, not to mention the fact that scuba just doesn't seem as glamorous now that they've done away with the glass head globes of yesteryear. :)

Now that you know this, imagine my delight after coming across articles recently about the 2 tour companies below. While each offers a different experience, I think either would be amazing.

In Honduras, a 30-something American man named Karl Stanley has built a small submarine, just large enough to hold a captain (himself) and 2 passengers. Expeditions range from 1 1/2 hours to 8 hours, going down as deep as 2000 feet. Both day and night trips are available. It's not super-inexpensive (prices start at $600 for 2), but would absolutely be worth the money for such an amazing and unusual experience. Karl and his Roatan Institute of Deepsea Exploration are currently one of only 2 operators in the world offering trips like this. The other can be found here: http://www.underseahunter.com/uh.htm (click on DeepSee). My husband and I are considering a trip to Honduras later this year, and we will definitely be booking a trip with Karl the moment we have our plane tickets!

For more information:
http://www.stanleysubmarines.com/

In the Bahamas, a company has come up with an idea that also lets you explore undersea without the hassle of getting PADI certified or dealing with a snorkel and foggy mask. Like those celebrity "What would their child look like?" mashups on Conan O'Brien, these so-called underwater motocycles are how I would picture the spawn of a jetski, scuba diver, and submarine. At just $110 per person per trip, this excursion is more wallet friendly than many other undersea options, and looks as though it would be a good bet for those who want to look for Nemo but are not quite ready to commit to a true sub ride.

For more information:
http://www.sub-bahamas.com/





 


























FlightMemory.com

I recently came across this site, which allows you to keep track of every flight you've taken since the beginning of time (literally--I was amused to note that the date option box scrolled back to at least the 30th century B.C.!). If you want to keep it simple, you can just put in the airport codes for each flight. For more detail, it also offers options to input your travel dates, flight times, flight number, airline, seat number and type (aisle, middle, window), class of service, and reason for the flight (personal, business, or virtual/simulator). If you are really ambitious, there are even sections to fill in for type of airplane, airplane name and registration number, and comments. Registration and basic use (includes all the features I mention here plus a few more) is free, and all it takes to get started is a user name and password. My only real complaint is that there's no way to put in round trip flights together--instead you have to go through the process for each leg.

Once you have filled in your flight data, clicking on the "statistics" tab will give you tons of info about your flights, organized into various sections such as flight distances, amount of time spent flying, number of flights (broken down into domestic, transcontinental, etc.), longest and shortest flights, top ten airports and routes, and so forth. You can view this data all together, or break it down by year. My favorite feature is the map that shows each route you've taken.

I just stuck with the airport codes and dates, but must admit, I still spent way more time than I probably should have filling in data for all my flights since February 2004. What can I say, I'm a total nerd when it comes to statistics, especially those that in any way relate to my travels!

A few of my stats (Feb. 04-Feb '08)
Flights taken: 84
Miles flown: 115, 417 (equivalent to circumnavigating the globe 4.63 times!)
Longest flight: Atlanta, GA (ATL) to Athens, Greece (ATH) 5,694 miles / 10hr 41min
Shortest flight: Tahiti, FP (PPT) to Moorea, FP (MOZ) 15 miles / 32 min
Total airports: 31
Total routes: 62
Total countries: 11

Ok, so I know these are not the most impressive numbers in the world, but I'm working hard on getting them up as quickly as possible!

My full FM profile: http://my.flightmemory.com/travelprincessatl

http://www.flightmemory.com

Saturday, August 11, 2007

Space hotel to open in 2012--rates from $4M for 3 nights


http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070810/sc_nm/space_hotel_dc

Finally, a hotel that makes the Poseidon Underwater resort look like a bargain!

Friday, August 10, 2007

Tripadvisor.com

Probably the most useful travel resource there ever was for those to whom picking the right hotel is paramount. Use it!
A few tips/thoughts:

*Don't just look at the star rating--actually read the reviews--as many as you can. I see so many people on there who don't do their research, then complain about things that would have been easily discovered by even a quick scan of previous reviews.

*Keep in mind that the hotels ratings are user ratings--not necessarily indicative of the level of luxury the property may offer.

*Also keep in mind that the overall tripadvisor rating of a property may be skewed if the property has recently gone through major changes--for better or worse. By looking at recent reviews, you may find that while the hotel has only a 3* overall rating, the reviews over the past year are all 4* and 5*. This can be due to management changes, renovations, a new chef, etc. Conversely, a hotel may have a 4.5* overal rank, but changes on site may mean that recent rating are all 1*. The rating itself does not tell the whole story.

*Be sure to look at the candid traveler photos--these will generally give you a much better idea of what the resort actually looks like now, rather than what it looked like 20 years ago or after extensive photoshopping.

*You may not agree with this strategy, but I always immediately disregard any review that reads as though written by a 5-year-old. If someone is not even intelligent enough to have a firm grasp on proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation, I don't believe they are intelligent enough to form a worthy opinion of a hotel.

*Click on reviewers' names and take a look at other reviews they have written. Unless they ave only written a single review, this tactic will give you an idea of the type of properties the user generally visits. In my opinion, the best/most telling reviews come from those who are used to staying in the type of property they are currently reviewing--whether it's a low-end chain motel, a local boutique hotel oozing with local charm, or one of the top luxury resorts of the world.

On the other hand, reviews from those for whom this particular hotel experience was a one-off can often be skewed by the writer's experience and perspective. For example, I have noticed that people used to staying in motels who splurge on a high-end luxury resort will often review the property in one of 2 ways:
-they will pronounce it the most amazing hotel in the world, no matter what they experienced during their stay, as the hotel was so much better than what they are used to--or b/c it was so much more expensive that they assume the experience MUST have been great.
OR
- they will find fault with everything and feel ripped off; because they have no previous experience with luxury travel, they expect that a $500/night price tag means they'll vacation like royalty. When the experience is somewhat different from their expectations, they exact revenge in the form of a bad review.

There is another side to that coin, though: the traveler who is used to staying solely at large 5-star American-chain style properties, who gives a terrible review to a mid-range boutique hotel. Just because he hated the fact that the smaller hotel had no room service, TV, or pool butlers does not mean that you will feel the same. Depending on your personal travel style, you may be thrilled to find a hotel with tons of regional culture, no other choice than to get out to explore and enjoy local restaurants, and a chance to really disconnect from the media monster!

*Take advantage of the forums for your destination! They tend to be very active and informative, and I find them easier to search and navigate than many competing forums.

*Make sure you do other research as well. Tripadvisor is great, but it does not list every single hotel in the world, and information on many less-touristy areas is scarce.

*More sites to check out when researching a trip:

www.cruisecritic.com -- tons of information and reviews on cruises

www.virtualtourist.com -- hotel, restaurant, and site-seeing reviews and advice

www.mytripreport.com -- just what it sounds like--full trip reviews from real travelers

www.fodors.com -- information and advice from the publishers of the guidebooks of the same name, as well as deals and user forums

www.frommers.com -- information and advice from the publishers of the guidebooks of the same name, as well as deals and user forums

www.concierge.com -- online site for Conde Nast Traveler magazine

www.travelandleisure.com -- online site for Travel & Leisure magazine

www.islands.com -- online site for Islands magazine

www.caribbeantravelmag.com -- online site for Caribbean Travel and Life magazine

www.igougo.com -- travel reviews, photos, forums, deals, and articles

www.epinions.com -- Reviews for some hotels, as well as everything else from electronics to cars

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Amazing new resort opening in Fiji in 2009

Poseidon Underwater Resort will be the only property of its kind in the world, and promises to provide an unparalleled experience...

http://www.poseidonresorts.com/poseidon_main.html


I will say that for $30K per couple for 6 nights, I would at least expect to be in the underwater rooms the whole time (right now, you only get 2 nights there and 4 in a beach bungalow). Still, it looks absolutely incredible, and the excursions definitely beat out your typical tour!

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Atlanta Ritz-Carlton reviews

Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead

Living in Atlanta, my husband and I have stayed here numerous times over the years for various special occasions--including multiple Valentine's Days, anniversaries, and our wedding night. We were also engaged here, so I must admit the hotel holds a special place in our hearts. However, we are also fairly picky travelers, so it takes a lot to entice us to return again and again!

The rooms are not huge, but comfortable and well appointed. I won't bother to describe them, as you can look at photos on the hotel website, but rest assured that the photos you'll see accurately depict the rooms. Ask for a room on a higher floor, and one with a view of Peachtree Rd.--otherwise, you are likely to be staring at the parking garage or neighboring buildings.

The service is a credit to the Ritz brand--friendly, prompt, and personalized. On our most recent visit (a weekend "in-town vacation"), they noted our history, and presented us with complimentary champagne upon check-in. It was a nice touch, and a great way to begin our stay! Another example of the hotel going the extra mile was after our wedding, when we returned to the room to find the staff had put orchids and other tropical flowers all over the bed, and left us a bottle of champagne, chocolate covered strawberries, a plate of fresh fruit and a box of Godivas.

After at least 2 dozen meals over the years in the Cafe, I have yet to have a bad meal. I can't comment on the Dining Room (not a huge fan of heavy French fare), but have heard it's excellent as well. On many nights, the Cafe features live piano music and dancing...maybe not the trendiest or edgiest dance floor in town, but wonderful for an old-fashioned romantic evening!

High tea at the Ritz Buckhead is also a treat. this is one of the few places in Atlanta that still does it properly, with bone china and a wonderful selection of scones, sandwiches, and pastries.

Room service is good, prompt, and has been the proper temperature each time it's been delivered (and after many years of travel, I've found that this is generally as good as it gets when it comes in in-room dining!).

The bar, with its stiff drinks and clubby atmosphere, is a great place for a date..or to find one! If you want to see the real "Buckhead Bettys" (for those of you who have heard of the show of the same name), this is the place to be. A meat market, to be sure, but one featuring filet mignon (often heavily aged, but generally well-preserved....lol)

The location is excellent if you plan to take advantage of Atlanta's best shopping, restaurants, and nightlife. Next door to one of the city's most upscale malls and across the street from another, the Ritz is a great choice for anyone looking to shop 'til they drop. A short (5-10 minute) drive will get you to various boutiques. Many of the city's finest restaurants are within a 10 minute drive as well, and there are several close enough to walk to from the Ritz. Valet parking is around $20 a night, on par with any other city hotel.

All in all, the Ritz is a great value, and in my opinion, the best high-end hotel in Atlanta (as compared with the Ritz-Carlton Atlanta downtown, the Four Seasons, and the Grand Hyatt). I hope this review has been helpful to you, and feel free to email me (address in profile) if you have more questions. Happy travels!

Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta
coming soon

Friday, August 03, 2007

My favorites list...

People always ask what our favorite place has been...and it's a difficult question to answer! We have been lucky enough to have visited many wonderful places, each with unique benefits. But here are a few places that have really stood out...

*Favorite destination for gorgeous scenery: Tikehau, French Polynesia

*Favorite resort: Los Altos de Eros - Tamarindo, Costa Rica

*Favorite hotel room: Frangipani villa at Stonefield Estate - Soufriere, St. Lucia

*Favorite trip overall: Brazil

*Favorite for snorkeling: Tikehau, French Polynesia

*Favorite for a long weekend: Ambergris Caye, Belize

*Favorite domestic destinations/hotels:
Lanai, HI--Four Seasons Manele Bay
Scottsdale, AZ--The Phoenician
Captiva Island, FL--South Seas
San Francisco, CA--Westin St. Francis
Charleston, SC--Francis Marion, Charleston Place

*Favorite airlines:
Domestic--Continental
International: Air Tahiti Nui

*Favorite non-beach destination: Tuscany

Monday, April 30, 2007

Brazil-- Buzios, Morro de Sao Paulo, and Rio April '07

Buzios photos: http://tinyurl.com/2kcj9e

Morro de Sao Paulo photos: http://tinyurl.com/2rflrx

Rio de Janeiro photos: http://tinyurl.com/2q8hsb

Buzios--Pousada Casas Brancas (4 nights): A
review to come

Morro de Sao Paulo--Anima Hotel (4 nights): A
review to come

Rio de Janeiro--Hotel Praia Ipanema (1 night) : A-
review to come

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Looking for an overwater bungalow?

The two areas in which these types of accommodations are most prevalent are French Polynesia (aka Tahiti) and the Maldives. In general, if you want the stereotypical OWB with all the bells and whistles--including crystal clear water and glass floor or coffee table, and more upscale building materials and furnishings--these 2 areas will have the most options.

There are a few exceptions, of course, one of which is a brand new resort in Fiji called LikuLiku (http://www.likulikulagoon.com/)

Another gorgeous place for an OWB is Aitutaki Lagoon Resort, in the Cook Islands http://www.aitutakilagoonresort.com/

In the Phillipines: http://www.elnidoresorts.com/

Other resorts with OWBs do exist throughout the world--just be aware that these may not all be at the same level of luxury or in as tropical of a setting as the OWBs mentioned above. Not to say they would not still be wonderful places to vacation--just perhaps somewhat different from the commonly seen French Polynesian overwater bungalow. Here are a few to consider:

Coral Lodge-- San Blas Islands, Panama http://www.corallodge.com/

Punta Caracol Aqua Lodge-- Bocas del Toro, Panama http://www.puntacaracol.com/

9 Beaches--Bermuda http://www.9beaches.com/

Hotelito Desconocido-- near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico http://www.hotelito.com/

Anthony's Key-- Roatan, Honduras http://www.anthonyskey.com/

Coconuts Beach Club--Samoa http://www.coconutsbeachclub.com/

Glover's Atoll Resort--Belize http://www.glovers.com.bz/

St. George's Caye Lodge--Belize http://www.gooddiving.com/

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Travel insurance and medical evacuation insurance

Now that you have your flights and hotels booked, your list of must-see sights, must-eat restaurants, and must-buy souvenirs, there's one more thing to think about: insurance. For travel, this type of insurance tends to fall into one of two categories: trip cancellation/interruption coverage (often with a medical insurance rider), and medical evacuation coverage.

Basic trip cancellation/interruption insurance generally covers you if you have to cancel your trip due to injury, a death in the immediate family, a hurricane or terrorist act in your destination city, etc.

Only you can decide whether it's worth it to you to purchase insurance or not, and I would not bother with insurance when traveling fairly inexpensively close to home, especially if you can cancel/change your flights and hotels with little or no fee.

However, I do recommend it for:
* International trips or any other trips that are fairly expensive and in which you may incur high costs is you have to cancel or come home early
* When traveling to high risk areas (for weather or political reasons), such as the Caribbean during hurricane season, many parts of the Middle East any time, Indonesia right now, etc.
* When you have non-refundable plane tickets (though you can often cancel and re-ticket even these for a $100 or so fee, depending on the airline) and hotel reservations
* If you have a medical condition that may cause you to postpone/cancel your trip, or a close relative with the same

Costs vary based on your age, the cost and length of the trip, how comprehensive the coverage you choose, etc. But to give a ballpark figure, we generally pay $100-$150 (total for both of us) for coverage on an 8-9 night international trip. The cost is very small as compared to the overall cost of the trip, and the peace of mind is well worth the small added expense. The best site I've found for immediate quotes (generally it gives you a couple of dozen to compare) and online purchase is www.insuremytrip.com. If you are working with a travel agent, they may also be able to wrap insurance into your package. Just be sure to do your research and make sure you get the coverage that fits you and your trip!

Medical evacuation insurance is another breed. In the event you are seriously injured while out of town, medevac insurance covers your transportation from your destination to either the nearest hospital, the nearest hospital with good facilities to treat you, or whichever hospital you choose, depending on what type of coverage you have. You may think you don't need this because you are young and healthy, but accidents do happen to people of all ages. The bill if you are injured and have to be med-evaced to another country can be in the tens of thousands of dollars--and your health insurance may not pay cover it.

There are a couple of options for med-evac insurance. First, you can go trip-by-trip and purchase this along with your regular travel insurance. If you travel rarely, this is probably the best option. If you travel a great deal, though, especially to exotic destinations, the better option may be a MedJet membership. For $325 a year, my husband and I have complete medevac coverage through them. Luckily, we've never had to use it, but it's nice to know we are covered if we do ever face an emergency.

http://www.medjetassistance.com/default.asp?partner=

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Want to join the Mile High Club?

There's a new name in airborne love in Atlanta...

http://milehighatlanta.com/

Wow. Good idea in theory, bad idea in actuality. I am especially both entertained and repulsed by the photo of the bed entitled "View from the cockpit with the curtains open". Personally, I prefer not to have a random stranger 3 inches from me when being intimate with my husband. But that's just me. On the plus side, it looks as though you could easily join not only the mile-high club, but also the much more exclusive "Midair Menage a Trois Club".

Mile High Atlanta...because nothing says romance like sex on Wal-Mart sheets 3 inches from a stranger's head while circling over downtown Snellville.

Luxurylink.com tips

This website can be very enticing with its glossy pictures and promises of amazing travel deals. I actually booked a package through LL a few years ago, and was fairly pleased with the whole experience.

However, there are a few things to be aware of before you book through luxurylink...

A few tips to make the process as smooth as possible:

*Do your research before making any bids or purchases. Verify that the price you are getting from the site is actually a deal by checking rates on the hotel's proprietary website. Keep in mind that many of the packages on LuxuryLink are also available for the same price through the hotel directly or through travel agents, and booking through these channels will allow you to verify availability of the dates you want before you are obligated to make any payments.

*Make sure that the dates you want do not fall in noted "blackout" periods for the package in which you're interested. Most major holiday periods tend to not qualify for the prices shown.

*Wait to bid (if you are doing an auction package) until shortly before the auction closes. Otherwise, you are likely just bidding the price up unnecessarily.

*Right before bidding, call the property directly to make sure that they have availability for the dates you want. Once you win, keep on top of things to make sure you get booked quickly (if you are not flexible with dates).

*The "buy it now" packages don't seem to be a particularly great deal . Most of those I've ever looked at are only slightly lower than the cost to book directly (and the savings may not be worth it if your dates are not very flexible), and sometimes are actually higher than you may find going through a travel agent or the hotel directly.

*The "a la carte" rates are sometimes a little lower than those you may find through the hotel or a travel website. They also give you a bit more security, as you book for the dates you want, rather than having to agree to pay for the package before you can confirm your dates, as with the auction and "buy it now" packages.

How to get free plane tickets...

For many travelers (us included, usually!) getting bumped off a flight is an inconvenient and even upsetting prospect. But if you have the flexibility and desire to volunteer to get bumped, the benefits may be worth it.

We were in Phoenix recently, and were scheduled to fly out on a Friday afternoon Delta flight. By the time it was time to leave, though, we were wishing we had another day or two in the sun! Sadly, when we called to change our flights, the change fee we were quoted was way to high to justify to ourselves. Looked like we'd be heading home as planned. Or not...

When we got to the airport, it was packed--spring breakers leaving after a sunny vacation + with business travelers heading home for the week = overbooked flights. Since Bob and I were in no hurry to get home, decided we'd see if we could get bumped. Not only would that give us more time in the sun, but also vouchers to use for free (or at least reduced price) tickets in the future.

After checking in and getting through security we headed for our gate with just over an hour to spare before our flight. (yay for Delta Medallion status--the Medallion security line was < 5 minutes, as opposed to 45+ for the regular security line! A related tip--often in situations like this, no one will check to see if you are actually eligible for the Elite line. Just walk up like you are supposed to be there, and 9 times out of 10 you can breeze on through with no problem. And on the 1 time out of 10 they do find out you are not holding elite status? Play dumb. They are not likely to send you all the way back to the end of the normal line. Or so I've heard... One notable exception is at Atlanta Hartsfield airport, where not only will they generally check your Medallion card as soon as you join the line, but will also only let Gold and Platinum members--no Silver--through.)

At the gate, we asked the gate agent if the flight was overbooked. When she told us it was, we asked what the compensation was were we to volunteer to be bumped. She told us she was not sure if they would need volunteers or not, but if they did, they were offering $400 pp in Delta vouchers. We put our names on the list and waited. Sure enough, a few minutes after the flight started boarding, she called us up to the desk and told us they would need our seats. Worked for us!

The catch? The 2 flights later that day were also overbooked, so she couldn't get us on a flight until the next morning. Not a huge deal, though--it was 85 and sunny in Arizona, so we were happy to spend another night there (even in the decidedly sub-par hotel in which they put us up.) The only real issue was that our bags would be heading to Atlanta on our original flight without us. Luckily, I had packed new clothes I'd bought that week in my carry-on, so I knew I wouldn't have to wear the same clothes home the next day. Bob was not as lucky, but at least he did have an extra shirt he could put on the following morning. We were each given a toiletry kit with essentials (toothpaste and toothbrush, shaving cream and razor, deodorant, and a t-shirt--that was nice, as I didn't relish sleeping naked on 2* hotel sheets!).

Our compensation totaled $800 plus about $50 worth of vouchers for food (unfortunately, these are only valid in the airport) and about $30 worth of in-flight drink coupons (these will definitely come in handy on a future flight!).

The next day, we repeated the process. We were hoping we'd be able to get bumped off flights all day, and really rack up the vouchers! The airport was once again packed, and people were harassing the kind but harried gate agent to put them on the flight. Sadly, we ended up getting on our flight. But the agent did come by with an additional handful of drink coupons to thank us for volunteering, so our effort was not a total waste :)

Overall, we are glad we volunteered. It gave us an extra afternoon in the sun, a chance to shop in one of my favorite places, which just happened to be fairly close to our hotel, and a reasonable amount of money to throw towards future flights. Yes, not having our suitcases was an inconvenience, but not the end of the world. And from now on, we will likely volunteer on any flight on which our schedule allows. Worst case, we end up with some free drinks :)

At the end of the day, it totally depends on you and your situation and time constraints as far as whether getting bumped voluntarily from a flight is worth both the hassles and the compensation. If you are interested in doing so, though, here are a few tips:

*Go up to the desk at your gate as soon as possible--you may not be the only one interested in volunteering, so you want to try to be first on the list.

*Ask what the compensation is before you agree to get bumped. Often it's only $200 per ticket, which may not be worth the hassle, especially if you have to spend the night. Also ask when the next flight that they can get you on leaves. Make sure that flight fits within your time frame. Note: If the next flight to your destination gets you there less than an hour after your original flight would have, they do not owe you anything.

*It can't hurt to try and bargain a bit, on both the compensation and (if applicable) the hotel they will put you up in. The compensation may be non-negotiable, but if they are desperate for your seats, you are in a good position to try and raise the stakes. As far as hotels, the ones airlines put bumped fliers in are usually all pretty crappy, but if there is a choice--try and ascertain which may suit your needs best. One may be a slightly better choice than the other(s) due to factors like location, free shuttle service to nearby restaurants, shopping, and attractions, etc.

*If you are given tickets/vouchers (as opposed to cash), make sure they can be used anytime. Sometimes the vouchers given will have blackout dates and restrictions akin to those on frequent flier tickets.

Web resources:
http://www.bumptracker.com/

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

St. Lucia -- January/February 2007

4 nights Ti Kaye Village Resort, Castries
4 nights Stonefield Estate Villa Resort, Soufriere


Photo link: http://tinyurl.com/2wa3vq

Reviews coming soon...

Costa Rica -- August/September 2006

For this vacation, we spent one night at Hotel Grano de Oro in San Jose, four nights at Los Altos de Eros Inn and Spa just outside of Tamarindo, and four nights at Gaia Hotel and Reserve in Manuel Antonio.

http://www.hotelgranodeoro.com
http://www.losaltosdeeros.com/
http://www.gaiahr.com/index.asp

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/34fw2g

Hotel Grano de Oro review:

My husband and I spent a night here at the beginning of a 9-night Costa Rica vacation last fall, and were pleased overall with the property. Check in was fairly quick and quite friendly, and the public areas of the hotel are lovely, with several small foliage-draped courtyards.

The superior room was not large or fancy, but was certainly comfortable enought for the night. We had a window looking out onto a pretty open air courtyard, and a spacious-enough bathroom. The shower was large and the water pressure was good. The only real complaint we had was that it was very noisy in the morning (starting pretty early). Not sure if they were doing construction to the hotel itself or just nearby, but there were a lot of chainsaw/jackhammer type sounds in the hours before we checked out.

We had already eaten dinner by the time we arrived, but did partake in a couple of cocktails--the mojitos were especially delicious! Breakfast the next morning was very good as well, and we were shocked at how inexpensive it was.

Transportation between the airport and hotel will be somewhere around $15-$20, and the ride is around 20 minutes or so.

I would say GdO is a very good choice in San Jose, and we'd absolutely stay there again.

Los Altos de Eros review:

Like a character in an old cartoon, I sit here now with a devil on one shoulder and an angel on the other… The devil tells me to keep my mouth shut about how unreal Los Altos de Eros is. The angel says that since I found Los Altos through Tripadvisor in the first place (and booked our visit within the hour!) it’s only fair to add my own 2 cents. I am quite tempted to listen to my devilish side (as usual), but lucky for you, I have always been good at sharing!

I will admit, my husband and I are picky travelers, and expect the very best. We have been lucky enough to spend time in many of the world’s (supposed) finest hotels, but never have we experienced anywhere like Los Altos. This is paradise--every detail here is perfect, every luxury complete. Many 5-star resorts have good staff who manage to be friendly and helpful, and make your stay run smoothly. But each of the 22 people who work here—Ari, Yanina, Leo, Wilfredo, and Francisco to name a few—go beyond that. Not one person we encountered was any less than completely kind, charming, gentle, delightful, and supremely perceptive as to when we needed anything (or nothing!) at all. The service and attention that one receives as a guest here is the very definition of luxury. It is obvious from the moment you walk through the front door that everyone truly adores what they do and is happy to be here. The difference that makes is immeasurable, and is a tremendous part of what makes Los Altos such an incredible place to stay.

The inn itself is stunningly designed and decorated—I won’t spend much time describing it, since photographs do a much better job than I ever could. But I will say it is a brilliant combination of Costa Rican flavor and character, Mediterranean style architecture, and barefoot luxury mixed with casual elegance. Our room was filled with sunlight during the day, and at night, we fell asleep in the supremely comfortable bed the moment our heads touched the pillows. The bed itself was decorated daily with fresh orchids, a beautiful tropical touch. When we first checked into the inn, a chilled bottle of white wine and 2 glasses awaited us on our dresser—wonderful after a long day of travel! We stayed in a king room, and spent most of our time sitting on the cushioned chaise lounges on our deck, looking out over the lush green hills that slope gently down to the blue Pacific. In the distance, we often heard the almost primordial-sounding calls of the local howler monkeys—who also made some appearances in the trees only yards away from where we sat!

One huge factor of what makes Los Altos such a wonderful retreat is the guests themselves. As Peter (reviewer #52) commented, there seems to be some self-selection at work here. (This is not a place for everyone—if you love the feel of a large anonymous resort, if you don’t like to spend time getting to know those around you, if you are the type who treats hotel staff like servants, this is not the place for you). However, if you love getting the chance to really talk to others, be around people who have interesting stories to tell and are interested in meeting you as well, you will fit in well and love your stay. Never before have I been able to say that not only was I lucky enough to get to know at least a little bit about every person who shared the inn with us during our 4-nights there, but I could still tell you every single person’s name. I think we were truly lucky to have a particularly lovely group staying there with us, but then I may be biased… Hello to everyone who was there with us—and Mark and Ros, thank you for your hello and kind invitation! You know y’all always have a place to stay in Atlanta—we would love to have you visit us anytime!

Another area in which Los Altos excels is its meals—the food, the presentation, the service, there is nothing to say except that it doesn’t get any better than this. Our Saturday night dinner was already well-described in review #52, but I must say that post-dinner was just as much fun, as Calvin and Jacqueline sat with us and some of the other guests by the pool, talking and laughing, and just enjoying our time together. Speaking of Calvin and Jacqueline, I must say that never before have my husband and I been so warmly welcomed anywhere. We stepped into their home as strangers, but I feel we left as friends. You will have a hard time finding more interesting people to talk to, and both are sophisticated, witty, fun, entertaining and constantly committed to making sure their guests are having an extraordinary stay—absolutely the consummate host and hostess.

We had planned to do several activities while we were in the Tamarindo area—surfing, fishing, and a zip-line tour. But we could not bring ourselves to leave the resort—our state of relaxation and pure bliss was too great to consider stepping out into the real world for more than an hour or two! My only regret about our time there is that we did not do the day spa package—but at least we have that to look forward to during our next visit! We did have the sunset massage for 2, though—a divinely romantic and decadent treat that everyone should partake in while visiting. It does not get any better than an amazing massage followed by alone time with your “amor”, sipping champagne and eating strawberries with cream and brown sugar, listening to the howler monkeys cry out as the sun slips down over the jungle and sea.

But the delights did not stop there…we followed this up with a private dinner in the spa. A table was set up next to the jacuzzi, and we were served a delectable meal by candlelight. A salad with pecan-crusted goat cheese preceded moist and tender grilled mahi-mahi and vegetables with garlic bread. Rum-soaked brownies with vanilla-bean ice cream were a perfect end to a fabulous meal. The spa was then ours for the evening, so we made good use of it, sipping wine in the jacuzzi while staring at the star-studded sky. I just cannot imagine a more romantic setting or a more flawless evening.

I have so much more to say about Los Altos de Eros, but feel it is best experienced firsthand, like all the most worthwhile things in life. No matter how many pictures you see of the staggeringly beautiful sunsets from the pool, no matter how many glowing reviews you read, you can’t truly appreciate the astonishing appeal of Los Altos until you have actually spent time there yourself. In the meantime, please feel free to email me if you have any questions about my stay.

Just one more thing…while I agree with the reviewers who stated they felt like royalty/celebrities, I would say it is even better than that. I must continue the “between heaven and earth” theme I have seen in other reviews, and say that staying here must be more like being a particularly pampered and sybaritic angel, for everything about Los Altos is heaven indeed. I don’t know how Jacqueline and Calvin have made it all come together in such a spectacular, decadent, sensuous, fun, special, perfect way, but they have. We marveled at every moment while we were there, and have barely spoken about anything else since the day we left. My only worry is that nowhere else will ever measure up—Los Altos may very well have ruined us for other hotels! It is truly without equal—I am very confident in saying you will not find anywhere else quite like it on Earth. We will be going back as soon as humanly possible. Many thanks to Jacqueline and Calvin for a stay beyond compare.




Gaia review coming soon...

Lanai and Big Island, Hawaii -- July 2006

2 nights at a friend's home in Kona
3 nights Four Seasons Manele Bay on Lanai

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2ldsgo

I spent several nights at the 4S Manele Bay last summer for a girl's trip with my college roommate, and had a wonderful time! It's a beautiful resort with lovely rooms, great service, pool, food, etc. The clientele was mostly made up of honeymooner-types, couples in their 40s-50s, and families (though fewer of this last group than of the others). Do keep in mind that the beach is open to the public, as are all beaches in HI, so it was more crowded than the resort itself. There is also an area of the beach (closest to the path to the resort itself), that while not exclusive to the 4S, is where they put out the beach chairs and umbrellas that are for exclusive 4S guest use. So that area of the beach is pretty quiet, at least when we were there.

I can't speak to the activities at the hotel, as I spent the majority of my time just soaking up the sun by the beach or the pool, but I can say that this is a fabulous place to relax and unwind. With pool butlers coming by to offer frozen drinks, an Evian spritz, to clean your sunglasses, it's hard to get motivated to leave your chair! The service is excellent, as one would expect from a 4S resort. We ate at every restaurant there during our stay, and did not have a single meal that was any less than delicious.

One really cool feature of the location is that there are dozens of dolphins that live in Manele Bay and play in the waters there every day (or at least, when we were there!) They were a joy to watch jump and spin through the sea! My one and only (and very minor) disappointment of my stay was that the water was rougher, and thus the snorkeling not as good, as I'd hoped for previously. However, this may have just been due to the time of year.

We didn't rent a car while we were there, but the hotel runs a shuttle up to "town" (Lania City) and the 4S Lodge at Koele. There's not much to see and do in Lanai City, but it's an interesting and scenic ride up there, and there are a few cute shops to poke around in. The Lodge is pretty, with gorgeous grounds, but I was not as taken with it as I was with the Manele Bay property. Still, worth going up for a walk around the grounds and a drink in the bar. They also do an afternoon tea there, but it's a bit sparse--literally tea and a few cookies (we had been all excited for a full English tea, so were a bit let down!)

When someone recently asked me how I would best describe the 4S Manele Bay, I told her "lush, luxurious, and lovely"! It's just an all-around great resort--I really had no complaints about anything. I usually prefer boutique type resorts, but I still really enjoyed staying here. Everything is sort of "just right" here, if that makes sense. Not over the top, or ostentatious, just pretty and relaxing and pampering and romantic --well, would have been romantic if I'd been there with my husband instead of a friend, at least! I would absolutely recommend this resort to anyone looking for a beautiful and peaceful getaway.







Belize -- June/July 2006

Our second trip to Ambergris Caye, Belize--this time brought 4 friends along with us!
1 night Villas at Banyan Bay
4 nights Victoria House

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/34hq8e

Banyan Bay review coming soon...

Victoria House review:

Note:
We have now spent 2 vacations at Victoria House (4 nights each in September of '05 and July of '06). I wrote these reviews right after our trips, and am finally getting around to actually posting them! At any rates, on both trips we have just LOVED Victoria House, and we tend to be very picky :). We actually booked a stateroom as well, but got upgraded to a casita for the first three nights, so only spent one night in the staterooms. They don't have a private porch, but are much brighter and cooler than the casitas. The casitas have bigger beds, and again, the private porch with beach view is great, but may or may not be worth an extra $100+ a night to you*. Especially since you really won't be spending much time in your room anyway, with such gorgeous scenery outside!

*See note under stateroom section

We only stayed on Ambergris Caye, so I can't really tell you about the rest of Belize, but on AC, Victoria House is absolutely THE place to stay. We saw pretty much every resort on the island while we were there, and nowhere else even compared. In south Belize, on Placencia, Turtle Inn is supposed to be fabulous, though.


Tropic Air: Leaves BZE for San Pedro at bottom of every hour (or at :40?)
Maya Island Air: Leaves San Pedro for BZE at tip of every hour
Both $54 usd pp each way
Very similar—small 12 seat or so planes, great views


Victoria House:
Rooms: When we originally booked our package (through Travelocity) the only room available was the stateroom, which is the least expensive room. However, we inquired about upgrades upon arrival, and were given a free upgrade to casita instead for our first 3 nights. The casitas are set in the grass a bit back from the beach, and are small but pretty. Each has a porch with two chairs and a tile container filled with water (changed daily and topped with flower petals) with which to rinse your feet before entering the room. Victoria House is in the process of glassing in all the casitas, but right now most still have only screens and shutters on the windows. This definitely contributes to the “tropics” feel of the rooms, but unfortunately also is not great for keeping the room cool.

We liked the super comfortable king-sized bed draped with mosquito netting—until bedtime. Unfortunately, we discovered, the choice was air-conditioning or mosquito protection, as the netting blocked airflow. And even without the netting, the a/c unit was situated such that it was hard to feel the cool air while in bed. A few enterprising fellow guests told us they actually moved the mattress under the a/c, and that worked well. But my suggestion would be to ask for a glassed in unit when you book. But the bed itself was great—just the right firmness and luxurious bedding with high thread count sheets and a bright white duvet. The bathroom was tiny—about the size of a closet. But really, how much time do you spend in the bathroom? That didn’t bother us, but if you are looking for the huge marble bath, this may not be the room (or country, for that matter!) for you. The floors were tile, which was nice and cool on our hot and sandy feet. The room also contained a safe, minibar, desk and a couple of chairs. The casitas are a bit dark at night or when the shutters are closed, but once again, you won’t be spending much time in the room (and if you will be in the room a lot, you’re probably honeymooners, and won’t want bright light anyway!) There was some construction noise directly behind our casita (at times it sounded like someone was hammering on our wall), which I think was from the new “Villas at Victoria House” development.

Staterooms—On our last night we were “down-graded” as it were to the stateroom we had originally booked. To be honest, we liked these better than the casitas! The staterooms are located on the2nd floor of the main building. The rooms all share a wrap around porch, but that was nice for socializing—we had a little happy hour party up there! And the views of the resort are great up there as well—you don’t have the direct ocean view from some parts, but you can just turn your head and see it.  Because they are glassed in, the staterooms are much cooler and brighter (since you don’t have to keep the shutters closed) than the casitas. These rooms had 2 double beds instead of a king—I personally did not think they were quite as comfy as those in the casitas, but my husband thought the opposite, so that’s just a matter of taste, I suppose. The bathroom was actually a bit larger, but that may have been b/c the vanity was in with the shower and toilet.

Note: On our 2nd trip, we again stayed in a stateroom. Unfortunately, this time we got the worst (smallest, no view) room in the house. I believe it was #14, but it was whichever room is in the very corner of the building. If planning to stay in a stateroom, I would recommend making sure you do not get that one.

Both rooms: Bring a hairdryer—there’s not one in the room. There are also no TVs in the rooms, but they will bring you one, along with a VCR (you can borrow movies from the front desk). There are also no telephones in the rooms. This was a bit annoying the couple of times we needed to make calls, but overall it was not a big deal at all.

Food: Delicious! Victoria House really shines in this arena. At breakfast be sure to get a pastry basket 9I believe it is included with all the breakfast entrees). Every bite was delightfully fresh and yummy--muffins, banana bread, zucchini nut bread, etc. The jelly was particularly delicious—an unusual tropical fruit mix—I wish I had brought a jar home with me! We usually ordered the breakfast that included eggs, potatoes, and good, crispy bacon (I hate the limp, congealed bacon you are often served at hotels, so was pleased to see that they actually appeared to cook it properly here!) One morning I ordered the huevos rancheros on the glowing recommendation of another guest. This was probably the only dish I ate at Victoria House that I thought was only OK. Still, that may just be a question of taste.
Lunch—Both times we ate lunch at VH we both had quesadillas, which were very good. The lunch menu also had the typical burger, fish sandwich, salad, etc. selection.

Dinner- Oh, I still have dreams about this meal… We only ate dinner at Palmilla at VH once, and would be very upset about that if the dinners we’d eaten other places had not been excellent as well! But out dinner at Palmilla was truly one of the best meals I’ve eaten anywhere in the world. I had the Pecan-Crusted Grouper, and Bob had the grilled lobster. Both were absolutely fabulous. For dessert I ordered the “molten chocolate” cake with coconut ice cream and sliced bananas. Again, it was delicious.

Drinks—We loved the rum punch at VH—definitely try a glass or 10 while you’re there! I think the only beer they had was Belikan, which was very good (although I am not much of a beer drinker—reminded me a bit of Red Stripe, Corona, etc.. The margaritas were good too--and strong! I would recommend buying a bottle or 2 of liquor from duty free at the airport--perfect for cocktails on porch at sunset, and saves a bit of money over buying them at the bar. Plus, keeps you from having to run back and forth to the bar for refills!

Beaches: Gorgeous—the best in my opinion is at VH, but most of the beaches we saw were very clean and pretty, with powdery white sand and lots of tiny shells. They are dotted with palm trees dangling coconuts, and just all-around look like something out of a Corona commercial! The VH beach has 3 or 4 hammocks and some single and double loungers with cushions. They are sometimes all being used, but we could usually get a free one after a couple minute wait.

Water: Crystal clear and very calm, but not swimmable right off the beach due to an abundance of seagrass. You can walk to the end of the pier and walk down a short ladder into the water for good snorkeling, though. Even better , go to the end of the pier at Ramon’s resort. There, we saw thousands of brightly colored fish, a big stingray (there’s also one that lives by the pier at VH), and even some small barracuda. The water temperature was amazing as well—like a very warm bath.


Pool/grounds: Both the grounds and the pool itself are just beautiful. The grounds are covered in palms and tropical foliage, and kept impeccably clean and maintained at all times. The pool is also kept scrupulously cleaned, as is the pool terrace. There are always plenty of lounge chairs with fluffy cushions (as well as some without) and umbrella shaded tables and chairs where you can catch a few minutes out of the sun or eat some lunch. You can order lunch poolside from either the Palmilla or the bar --both have the same menu (tip: we found it was quicker to order from Palmilla.).

Atmosphere: Absolutely wonderful—the resort is very small and intimate, so you see the same people every day by the pool, on the beach etc. Everyone there (staff and guests) was very friendly and having a great time—we had some great conversations and fun times with other vacationers there! But it is definitely not a big party place, so if you are looking for total peace and quiet, you will still get it here. There were no children until last day, which was fantastic. Everyone was sort of sorry to see a family show up. I find that sometimes adults-only resorts draw a crowd looking more to party, so we liked the fact that while VH is not an AO, we weren’t subjected to screaming kids. Really, VH is just not the place for children. I also think it would be boring for them, since my guess is there are usually very few other children there. For a family trip, I would suggest Ramon’s or captain Morgan’s retreat.

Service: Just great! Everyone working here is always smiling, friendly, and happy to help with whatever you might want or need. This is the kind of place where you never hear no, which is always a plus!

Shuttle: When fly into San Pedro, tell people at airport you are going to VH, they’ll get a cab, which VH will pay for when you arrive at the hotel. It’s less than a 10 minute ride from the airport to VH. There is also a free “shuttle” that leaves from VH at 6:30 pm to take you into town. There may be other times it goes as well, but we only used it then. We tried to be on time for it, but missed it once, and VH had someone take us anyway, which was nice. You have to pay for a cab back to VH from town, but it’s a flat $5 rate each way, so no big deal there.

San Pedro town: Very fun and lively, with narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. Traffic can be a little crazy (not in a gridlock sense, more in a “there are no traffic lights or stop signs or driving laws!”), especially if you are on a bike, but you just have to be a bit careful to make sure a van doesn’t hit you! The only vehicles you’ll see are vans, a few pickup trucks, and golf carts. The town is somewhat Americanized, but not so much that it loses its wonderful sense of Caribbean-meets-Central America. There are vendors selling things on the streets and on some of the beaches, but all you have to do is say “No, thank you” and they’ll leave you alone.

Restaurants: Caliente is amazing. Be sure to try the fisherman’s lobster--it is fabulous, and you'll be amazed at the size of the lobster you get (especially for the low price!) The shrimp wrapped in bacon w/ garlic sauce is also excellent. The entrees are served with delicious coconut rice and grilled veggies—onions, peppers, tomatoes. The margaritas are also great.

Fidos—lobster again—bob’s w/ bacon, mine plain so so so good
Lobster prices at both above restaurants about $20/entree.

Monkey Bites—bit icky, food not bad, lots of flies, small (3 tables)

Jerry’s Crab Shack—crab cake sandwich good, fries also good, sit outside—it’s actually cooler there than inside…frozen lime drink was very yummy

Golf cart rental: $70usd/24 hours $5.50/hr after that ($50 for 8 hours) Moncho's right in town—can’t miss / cheaper than from VH / will deliver the cart to VH and pick up for free

Bugs: The mosquitoes were only bad one day (and a bit of a problem at dusk the other evenings) of our September trip. During our June/July trip, we only had a bit of an issue with them at sunset near the casitas. You will want to bring heavy duty bug repellent though! On our 2nd visit we brought the stuff in the metal can, which was much more effective than what comes in the little spray bottles.

Bikes can be rented for no charge at VH—I would recommend that you rent early in day when it is cooler, though!

Activities—Seaduced (http://ambergriscaye.com/seaduced/) and Searious (http://ambergriscaye.com/searious/index.html) are two of the most well known and reputable tour companies on Ambergris. Their packages and prices are pretty much identical. You don't have to book in advance, but if there is a particular excursion you especially want to do, I would book as soon as you get there. The reason for this is that some of the tours have a 6 or 8 person minimum to go out. If they can't "fill" the tour, it is cancelled. Booking ahead will allow you to pick a day when the tour is already pretty much filled, lessening the risk of cancellation. If you don't want to book before getting to Belize, I would recommend at least running by the office of one or both of the tour companies to find out which days are open for the tours. Keep in mind that if you decide to not go on an excursion you've booked, there is a 24-hour cancellation policy--otherwise, you pay for the tour either way.

On our 2nd trip, we went on the manatee tour with Seaduced, which was fun, interesting, and a good value. The boat takes you to see manatees, then to snorkel off of and have a barbeque lunch on a tiny uninhabited atoll (Goff's Caye). From there we were taken to Shark Ray alley for more snorkeling, then to the seahorse park in the waters off Caye Caulker. The last portion of the excursion was an hour or so stop on Caye Caulker to explore. We were there during Lobsterfest (usually around the first weekend of July), which was quite an experience as well!

Moorea, Tikehau, and Tahiti (French Polynesia) -- April 2006

For our second anniversary, Bob and I decided to go back to French Polynesia, where we'd spent our honeymoon. We spent one night in LA on the way out there, which I would highly recommend doing if you are coming from the East coast or Midwest, as it breaks up the long travel time.

Here was our itinerary:
1 night Westin Los Angeles Airport
3 nights Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa
4 nights Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort
1 night Intercontinental Resort Tahiti

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2o3lh5

Westin LAX review:
We spent one night here on a layover between Atlanta and Tahiti.
The rooms are fine--on the small side, but with the great Westin Heavenly beds. Very small bathrooms and a lack of water pressure, but that was not a huge deal for one night. No problems with airport noise at all.

We had dinner at the bar downstairs--it offers the standard bar fare, just dressed up a bit. Our meals were somewhat overpriced and not particularly good--not sure how a restaurant can screw up pizza, but it is apparently possible :)

Service can a bit surly. Check-out was fine, but the young guy who checked us in at the Starwood preferred desk was plain rude (basically could barely be bothered to speak to us, blatantly ignored a question we asked, etc.). Bar service was semi-polite, though very slow.

My advice would be to stay at the Sheraton Gateway instead (we had tried to get in there, but they were all booked). We had a much better night's stay there a few months prior.

Other reviews coming soon...

Cabo San Lucas, Mexico -- December 2005

5 nights at the Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2u5q9x

review coming soon...

Tuscany, Italy and a surprise visit to Paris -- Thanksgiving 2005

2 nights Hotel Calzaiuoli, Florence
2 nights Grand Hotel Continental, Siena
1 night complete dump, somewhere in France that may or may not have actually been Paris

Italy photos: http://tinyurl.com/2nx5uc

Paris photos: http://tinyurl.com/3xdxow

reviews to come...

Belize--Labor Day weekend 2005

4 nights Victoria House, Ambergris Caye

Photos from trip 1 (trip 2 photo link in most recent Belize blog): http://tinyurl.com/ypzf94

Note:
We have now spent 2 vacations at Victoria House (4 nights each in September of '05 and July of '06). I wrote these reviews right after our trips, and am finally getting around to actually posting them! At any rates, on both trips we have just LOVED Victoria House, and we tend to be very picky :). We actually booked a stateroom as well, but got upgraded to a casita for the first three nights, so only spent one night in the staterooms. They don't have a private porch, but are much brighter and cooler than the casitas. The casitas have bigger beds, and again, the private porch with beach view is great, but may or may not be worth an extra $100+ a night to you*. Especially since you really won't be spending much time in your room anyway, with such gorgeous scenery outside!

*See note under stateroom section

We only stayed on Ambergris Caye, so I can't really tell you about the rest of Belize, but on AC, Victoria House is absolutely THE place to stay. We saw pretty much every resort on the island while we were there, and nowhere else even compared. In south Belize, on Placencia, Turtle Inn is supposed to be fabulous, though.


Tropic Air: Leaves BZE for San Pedro at bottom of every hour (or at :40?)
Maya Island Air: Leaves San Pedro for BZE at tip of every hour
Both $54 usd pp each way
Very similar—small 12 seat or so planes, great views


Victoria House:
Rooms: When we originally booked our package (through Travelocity) the only room available was the stateroom, which is the least expensive room. However, we inquired about upgrades upon arrival, and were given a free upgrade to casita instead for our first 3 nights. The casitas are set in the grass a bit back from the beach, and are small but pretty. Each has a porch with two chairs and a tile container filled with water (changed daily and topped with flower petals) with which to rinse your feet before entering the room. Victoria House is in the process of glassing in all the casitas, but right now most still have only screens and shutters on the windows. This definitely contributes to the “tropics” feel of the rooms, but unfortunately also is not great for keeping the room cool.

We liked the super comfortable king-sized bed draped with mosquito netting—until bedtime. Unfortunately, we discovered, the choice was air-conditioning or mosquito protection, as the netting blocked airflow. And even without the netting, the a/c unit was situated such that it was hard to feel the cool air while in bed. A few enterprising fellow guests told us they actually moved the mattress under the a/c, and that worked well. But my suggestion would be to ask for a glassed in unit when you book. But the bed itself was great—just the right firmness and luxurious bedding with high thread count sheets and a bright white duvet. The bathroom was tiny—about the size of a closet. But really, how much time do you spend in the bathroom? That didn’t bother us, but if you are looking for the huge marble bath, this may not be the room (or country, for that matter!) for you. The floors were tile, which was nice and cool on our hot and sandy feet. The room also contained a safe, minibar, desk and a couple of chairs. The casitas are a bit dark at night or when the shutters are closed, but once again, you won’t be spending much time in the room (and if you will be in the room a lot, you’re probably honeymooners, and won’t want bright light anyway!) There was some construction noise directly behind our casita (at times it sounded like someone was hammering on our wall), which I think was from the new “Villas at Victoria House” development.

Staterooms—On our last night we were “down-graded” as it were to the stateroom we had originally booked. To be honest, we liked these better than the casitas! The staterooms are located on the2nd floor of the main building. The rooms all share a wrap around porch, but that was nice for socializing—we had a little happy hour party up there! And the views of the resort are great up there as well—you don’t have the direct ocean view from some parts, but you can just turn your head and see it.  Because they are glassed in, the staterooms are much cooler and brighter (since you don’t have to keep the shutters closed) than the casitas. These rooms had 2 double beds instead of a king—I personally did not think they were quite as comfy as those in the casitas, but my husband thought the opposite, so that’s just a matter of taste, I suppose. The bathroom was actually a bit larger, but that may have been b/c the vanity was in with the shower and toilet.

Note: On our 2nd trip, we again stayed in a stateroom. Unfortunately, this time we got the worst (smallest, no view) room in the house. I believe it was #14, but it was whichever room is in the very corner of the building. If planning to stay in a stateroom, I would recommend making sure you do not get that one.

Both rooms: Bring a hairdryer—there’s not one in the room. There are also no TVs in the rooms, but they will bring you one, along with a VCR (you can borrow movies from the front desk). There are also no telephones in the rooms. This was a bit annoying the couple of times we needed to make calls, but overall it was not a big deal at all.

Food: Delicious! Victoria House really shines in this arena. At breakfast be sure to get a pastry basket 9I believe it is included with all the breakfast entrees). Every bite was delightfully fresh and yummy--muffins, banana bread, zucchini nut bread, etc. The jelly was particularly delicious—an unusual tropical fruit mix—I wish I had brought a jar home with me! We usually ordered the breakfast that included eggs, potatoes, and good, crispy bacon (I hate the limp, congealed bacon you are often served at hotels, so was pleased to see that they actually appeared to cook it properly here!) One morning I ordered the huevos rancheros on the glowing recommendation of another guest. This was probably the only dish I ate at Victoria House that I thought was only OK. Still, that may just be a question of taste.
Lunch—Both times we ate lunch at VH we both had quesadillas, which were very good. The lunch menu also had the typical burger, fish sandwich, salad, etc. selection.

Dinner- Oh, I still have dreams about this meal… We only ate dinner at Palmilla at VH once, and would be very upset about that if the dinners we’d eaten other places had not been excellent as well! But out dinner at Palmilla was truly one of the best meals I’ve eaten anywhere in the world. I had the Pecan-Crusted Grouper, and Bob had the grilled lobster. Both were absolutely fabulous. For dessert I ordered the “molten chocolate” cake with coconut ice cream and sliced bananas. Again, it was delicious.

Drinks—We loved the rum punch at VH—definitely try a glass or 10 while you’re there! I think the only beer they had was Belikan, which was very good (although I am not much of a beer drinker—reminded me a bit of Red Stripe, Corona, etc.. The margaritas were good too--and strong! I would recommend buying a bottle or 2 of liquor from duty free at the airport--perfect for cocktails on porch at sunset, and saves a bit of money over buying them at the bar. Plus, keeps you from having to run back and forth to the bar for refills!

Beaches: Gorgeous—the best in my opinion is at VH, but most of the beaches we saw were very clean and pretty, with powdery white sand and lots of tiny shells. They are dotted with palm trees dangling coconuts, and just all-around look like something out of a Corona commercial! The VH beach has 3 or 4 hammocks and some single and double loungers with cushions. They are sometimes all being used, but we could usually get a free one after a couple minute wait.

Water: Crystal clear and very calm, but not swimmable right off the beach due to an abundance of seagrass. You can walk to the end of the pier and walk down a short ladder into the water for good snorkeling, though. Even better , go to the end of the pier at Ramon’s resort. There, we saw thousands of brightly colored fish, a big stingray (there’s also one that lives by the pier at VH), and even some small barracuda. The water temperature was amazing as well—like a very warm bath.


Pool/grounds: Both the grounds and the pool itself are just beautiful. The grounds are covered in palms and tropical foliage, and kept impeccably clean and maintained at all times. The pool is also kept scrupulously cleaned, as is the pool terrace. There are always plenty of lounge chairs with fluffy cushions (as well as some without) and umbrella shaded tables and chairs where you can catch a few minutes out of the sun or eat some lunch. You can order lunch poolside from either the Palmilla or the bar --both have the same menu (tip: we found it was quicker to order from Palmilla.).

Atmosphere: Absolutely wonderful—the resort is very small and intimate, so you see the same people every day by the pool, on the beach etc. Everyone there (staff and guests) was very friendly and having a great time—we had some great conversations and fun times with other vacationers there! But it is definitely not a big party place, so if you are looking for total peace and quiet, you will still get it here. There were no children until last day, which was fantastic. Everyone was sort of sorry to see a family show up. I find that sometimes adults-only resorts draw a crowd looking more to party, so we liked the fact that while VH is not an AO, we weren’t subjected to screaming kids. Really, VH is just not the place for children. I also think it would be boring for them, since my guess is there are usually very few other children there. For a family trip, I would suggest Ramon’s or captain Morgan’s retreat.

Service: Just great! Everyone working here is always smiling, friendly, and happy to help with whatever you might want or need. This is the kind of place where you never hear no, which is always a plus!

Shuttle: When fly into San Pedro, tell people at airport you are going to VH, they’ll get a cab, which VH will pay for when you arrive at the hotel. It’s less than a 10 minute ride from the airport to VH. There is also a free “shuttle” that leaves from VH at 6:30 pm to take you into town. There may be other times it goes as well, but we only used it then. We tried to be on time for it, but missed it once, and VH had someone take us anyway, which was nice. You have to pay for a cab back to VH from town, but it’s a flat $5 rate each way, so no big deal there.

San Pedro town: Very fun and lively, with narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. Traffic can be a little crazy (not in a gridlock sense, more in a “there are no traffic lights or stop signs or driving laws!”), especially if you are on a bike, but you just have to be a bit careful to make sure a van doesn’t hit you! The only vehicles you’ll see are vans, a few pickup trucks, and golf carts. The town is somewhat Americanized, but not so much that it loses its wonderful sense of Caribbean-meets-Central America. There are vendors selling things on the streets and on some of the beaches, but all you have to do is say “No, thank you” and they’ll leave you alone.

Restaurants: Caliente is amazing. Be sure to try the fisherman’s lobster--it is fabulous, and you'll be amazed at the size of the lobster you get (especially for the low price!) The shrimp wrapped in bacon w/ garlic sauce is also excellent. The entrees are served with delicious coconut rice and grilled veggies—onions, peppers, tomatoes. The margaritas are also great.

Fidos—lobster again—bob’s w/ bacon, mine plain so so so good
Lobster prices at both above restaurants about $20/entree.

Monkey Bites—bit icky, food not bad, lots of flies, small (3 tables)

Jerry’s Crab Shack—crab cake sandwich good, fries also good, sit outside—it’s actually cooler there than inside…frozen lime drink was very yummy

Golf cart rental: $70usd/24 hours $5.50/hr after that ($50 for 8 hours) Moncho's right in town—can’t miss / cheaper than from VH / will deliver the cart to VH and pick up for free

Bugs: The mosquitoes were only bad one day (and a bit of a problem at dusk the other evenings) of our September trip. During our June/July trip, we only had a bit of an issue with them at sunset near the casitas. You will want to bring heavy duty bug repellent though! On our 2nd visit we brought the stuff in the metal can, which was much more effective than what comes in the little spray bottles.

Bikes can be rented for no charge at VH—I would recommend that you rent early in day when it is cooler, though!

Activities—Seaduced (http://ambergriscaye.com/seaduced/) and Searious (http://ambergriscaye.com/searious/index.html) are two of the most well known and reputable tour companies on Ambergris. Their packages and prices are pretty much identical. You don't have to book in advance, but if there is a particular excursion you especially want to do, I would book as soon as you get there. The reason for this is that some of the tours have a 6 or 8 person minimum to go out. If they can't "fill" the tour, it is cancelled. Booking ahead will allow you to pick a day when the tour is already pretty much filled, lessening the risk of cancellation. If you don't want to book before getting to Belize, I would recommend at least running by the office of one or both of the tour companies to find out which days are open for the tours. Keep in mind that if you decide to not go on an excursion you've booked, there is a 24-hour cancellation policy--otherwise, you pay for the tour either way.

On our 2nd trip, we went on the manatee tour with Seaduced, which was fun, interesting, and a good value. The boat takes you to see manatees, then to snorkel off of and have a barbeque lunch on a tiny uninhabited atoll (Goff's Caye). From there we were taken to Shark Ray alley for more snorkeling, then to the seahorse park in the waters off Caye Caulker. The last portion of the excursion was an hour or so stop on Caye Caulker to explore. We were there during Lobsterfest (usually around the first weekend of July), which was quite an experience as well!

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

Los Angeles, Palm Springs, and San Diego -- June 2005

A business trip for my husband, on which I tagged along.

2 nights Sheraton Gateway Hotel LAX
3 nights La Quinta Resort & Club in La Quinta (in the Palm Springs area)
1 night Hyatt Regency Islandia in San Diego

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/2ykhq6

Sheraton Review:

We spent two nights here in June, on the first and last days of a weeklong trip. We actually booked the room through Priceline for $100 a night, which was a great deal! The hotel has been very recently renovated, and as a previous reviewer stated, it is indeed “surprisingly cool”! There’s a Starbucks in the lobby, which is very convenient for that early morning caffeine fix. Overall, I would definitely recommend this hotel if you need to stay by the airport.

Rooms A
As Starwood gold members, we hoped for an upgrade, but there were none available. However, the standard guestrooms were actually quite nice. They are not large, but well decorated and very comfortable. Standard Starwood heavenly beds, but with a dark blue duvet instead of the usual stark white. The rooms look exactly like the ones shown on the website, which is rare! The windows are triple paned, and we did not hear so much as a whisper of a plane taking off or landing. Both rooms we had overlooked the pool, though, so I can’t say how the noise would be on the other side of the building.

Service A
The valets were quick, the bellmen did not complain one bit about the insane amount of luggage we had with us, and the woman who checked us in both nights was very quick and courteous. Our wakeup calls came right on time, which is always good—I am always surprised at how many hotels can’t seem to get this right!

Bar A We came here for dinner and drinks both nights, and enjoyed it. The mojitos were great, and the food is pretty impressive (taste-wise) for bar fare. The first night we ordered nachos for an appetizer, which were so enormous we didn’t need any dinner! Don’t remember what else we ordered, but it was all good. The service is fast and generally friendly, and it is nice to be able to take your drinks and wander out by the pool to relax on a cushy chaise lounge 

Business Center A The woman working at the desk in here was very helpful and friendly, and they seemed to have anything a business traveler could possibly need. Free coffee, too!

Pool A There are lots of lounge chairs, and well as padded benches and several cabanas. You can get bar service out here as well, which is nice. We saw several planes fly overhead, but somehow could just barely hear them!

La Quinta review:

coming soon...

Hyatt Regency Islandia review:

We spent one night here while on a business trip for my husband. We booked through Priceline and paid $100 a night (darned per diems!), which was fair, but I would say that the hotel is not worth any more than that. It was very quiet, and not bad, but not the 4-star property they claim to be either.

Rooms B
The room itself was okay, a pretty standard 3 star room, with a very tiny bathroom. The bathroom did have marble countertops, but that does not a 4-star make. I do have to say that they did a great job with the lighting—so often hotel rooms do not have enough lamps and/or overheads, but our room here was very well lit. There was a very small balcony with a couple of metal chairs and a tiny plastic table. We did enjoy the fact that we could see the fireworks (put on by neighboring Seaworld, I believe) from the balcony. We did not enjoy the fact that our room (we were either on the 3rd or 4th floor) was directly over the area where they have the dumpsters, making being on the deck hard on the olfactory glands! ). I normally would have asked to switch rooms, but we were exhausted by the time we got there, and it just did not seem worth the effort for one night. If you are planning to stay here, I would recommend asking for a room on a high floor, with a view of the marina (we had a bit of one, but it was heavily obstructed by HVAC systems or similar equipment

Service A
The valets were very friendly, check in was quick and courteous, and the bellhops were also nice as can be. We had dinner at the Blue Bay California Bistro at the base of the main tower, and our waiter was quite friendly and brought our food out very quickly. There were only about 2 other parties in the restaurant at the time, so not sure if it would always be that quick, but hopefully so!

Restaurants B+
I was disappointed to see that the Islandia bar and restaurant was closed during our stay. We asked and were told that it is only open for dinner Wed-Sat, and for Sunday brunch (we were there on a Sunday night). It is the more upscale of the two restaurants at the hotel, and looks out directly onto the marina. The dinner we had at the California Bistro was actually delicious, though, so we were pleased with that  They have a pretty basic menu of sandwiches, burgers, salads, etc, but very fresh ingredients are used, making the sandwiches we had quite tasty.

Bars C
If the Islandia Bar had been open during our stay, this category would probably have gotten a much higher score. It looked spacious and pleasant, with (I believe) a seating area out on the deck where you can relax and enjoy the sunset or the lights of the marina. But, again, this was closed, so the only other bar option was a very small, dark, depressing one at the base of the tower. We walked in and pretty much walked right back out—it just had sort of a grim atmosphere.

Pool/Grounds B-
The grounds are kept clean, there’s a small koi pond, which was nice, and the landscaping is well maintained. But nothing particularly spectacular here. The pool itself was not at all impressive—small and very basic, surrounded by a fence which tends to take away from the overall look of the grounds. I’m sure they have to have the fence up for liability purposes, though, since many families stay here. There is also a tiny (maybe 20 feet by 15 feet) manmade “beach” right off the marina. Be forewarned: this is not an actual beach, but more of a dirty sandbox. If you want to lay in some sand, I would recommend the Hotel Del Coronado or even the La Valencia in La Jolla (just up the hill from a bit of beach) instead.

Location Depends
If you are planning on spending a lot of time at Seaworld, the location probably cannot be beat! The location is also pretty much equidistant to La Jolla and Coronado, among other areas, so if you want someplace where you are 30-40minutes from nearly everything, this may be a good choice for you. If you are just planning on spending most of your time in downtown/Old Town/Coronado (for example), though, this hotel is probably not the best option. There are also no restaurants within walking distance, which can be a problem when they only have one restaurant open. If you want something different, your options are to order room service (pretty much the same menu as the Cali Bistro) or to get in the car and drive a little ways away (not always appealing when you are exhausted from traveling!)

Overall, this is a decent hotel, just not quite up to the standards of a 4-star property, in my opinion. If you can get it for around $100 a night, and don’t want anything fancy (or want to be very close to SeaWorld but not anywhere else), it is worth considering.

Rainy Days in Jamaica--1st Anniversary Trip

Sans Souci Review




For more pictures of our trip, go to:
http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EegOGjFo2ctnGQ


Overview:
All in all, we had a great time. There were a few things I was disappointed in, but having done a lot of research, I was pretty prepared for what we experienced, and in general the hotel met my expectations. The resort itself is beautiful—spread out over 27 lush acres, there is a lot to explore, and the setting is gorgeous. Unfortunately, we were there during a week (April 14-21, 2005) in which there was pretty much a constant torrential downpour, which did put a damper on some things. Because of that, we did not get great tans (though we did both manage to become bright red that first morning!), were not able to go snorkeling, sailing, or out on the glass bottom boat, which was pretty disappointing. But we made the best of it, and still managed to fit in shopping (albeit in the rain), horseback riding, sea kayaking, spa treatments, and a whole lot of drinking.  We also made a couple of wonderful new friends—Jells1107 and her husband, who definitely made the trip a lot more fun!

One thing I do have to say is that this is definitely not a 5-star resort as advertised. Even for the Caribbean, there are some kinks that need to be ironed out before they reach that level. I would give it a 4-star rating, though, and we felt like it was worth what we paid (rain notwithstanding, as I understand that is not Sans Souci’s fault!) Would we go back there again? I doubt it—but that’s because there are too many other places I would like to visit first! For someone interested in a Jamaican vacation, though, I would absolutely recommend Sans Souci. I think it is a great place for honeymooners—very romantic. I do think singles would probably get bored there, though, as nearly all of the guests are couples.

Here are my overall impressions of the resort’s amenities. Please keep in mind that I have been very detailed, and have noted many things that may seem very nit-picky. My intention is not to be negative, but just to be very honest about everything we experienced. As I said before, we did have a wonderful, fun, and relaxing vacation at Sans Souci!

Flights:
B+ We used Delta FF miles to get from Atlanta to Montego Bay. Because we booked so late (less than 2 months before we wanted to go), and the fact that apparently we wanted to go at the tail end of “high season” in the Caribbean, the only flights we could get were on Continental (a Delta code-share airline), connecting through Houston. This was a huge mistake—we should have just bought tickets! The flights between ATL and HOU were about as long as direct ATL-MBJ flights would have been, so going through HOU was a huge time-waster. Oh, well—you live and learn!

We were actually quite impressed with Continental. Usually, we fly Delta, as all our FF miles are through them, we like being able to earn points via Amex, and they seem to have the most ways to earn points. However, we have really become disillusioned with their service, and would like to start branching out. Continental’s service was overall excellent, very friendly, and they even still serve food on the flights, which Delta has pretty much cut out entirely.

When we landed in Montego Bay, we had to wait forever for our luggage, but at least got through customs pretty quickly. But one piece of advice—if you have to use the ladies room when you get off the plane, don’t wait until you get to baggage claim/customs—there’s no bathroom there!

Shuttle: B+ / C-
Sans Souci has a small alcove at the airport right near the door leading outside. We were greeted by a rep who took our names and got us into a van for the 2.5 hour trip to the resort (it usually takes about 2 hours, but it was raining). We were the only two in the van, which was nice, but we sat there for 45 minutes waiting for the driver to get some kind of paperwork done. Since it was after 5 by the time we even got into the shuttle, we were obviously ready to get going! But once we got on the road, I didn’t think the ride was too bad. The ride actually wasn’t too bumpy, and the driver was very friendly, pointing out lots of sights and telling us various facts about Jamaica. We stopped at a small jerk restaurant a little more than halfway there for a bathroom and Red Stripe break.

The ride back was very different. The resort informed us that we had to take the 8 am shuttle (our flight was not until 1:30). This time, the van shook the whole ride like it was about to fall apart. Our driver was a bit surly, and worried us at one point by picking up a hitchhiker (who in fairness, actually turned out to be another resort driver, but it would have been nice if we were told that when he was first picked up!) Once again we stopped at a small restaurant, right on the water. I am blanking out on the name, but it also had a small gift shop. We grabbed a couple of cokes and looked around for the driver, who was nowhere to be found. Finally, we discovered him sitting outside enjoying a large lunch. So we sat…and sat…and sat. We were tired, hot, and ready to go, and he just kept sitting there eating and laughing with another guy. This was a bit irritating (not saying he doesn’t have the right to eat, but he was enjoying a VERY leisurely lunch while we very obviously wanted to get moving). Anyway, We ended up getting to the airport still with several hours to spare. So my advice? Figure out what time you REALLY need to leave for the airport, and insist that the resort provide a shuttle for you at that time.

Rooms: A-
We had suite B29, which is a recently updated beachfront Jacuzzi suite. The location itself was excellent—we couldn’t have asked for anything better! It was on the third floor, looking directly out onto the beach! We also had a great view of the pool, Pallazina restaurant, and the cliff where the other room blocks are located. The only potential issue I could see with this location is noise from the gala and beach party—but since they were rained out during our stay, we didn’t have to deal with this. The tropical flowers placed all around the suite when we arrived were a nice touch.

We had originally booked a veranda suite, but then decided to add on the Honeymoon/Anniversary upgrade package, which is a very good value IMO (more on that in the next section). The room was very clean, and reasonable spacious, though not huge. My biggest complaint about the room was that there was just not enough/bright enough light. Nice marble bathrooms, although the cheap vinyl shower liner used as a curtain did not seem to go with the rest of the décor. The bedroom area had a comfortable king-sized bed with decent sheets and a white mattelasse bedspread, as well as an armchair and dresser. The sitting area features a loveseat, armchair, coffee table, two side tables, minibar, and television. The loveseats at the resort are covered in nubby plaid fabric, which bothered me. The room would have looked fresher if they had used a lighter fabric with a more “tropical” print. Yes, I know that’s nitpicky. I think this is what happens when you grow up with a mother who redecorates the house every other year!


The price for this package is $250, The main reason we booked it was for the upgrade to a Jacuzzi suite which would have been about $700 more had we just booked one in the first place! It also includes 2 extra spa treatments (an exfoliating scrub and a foot massage), your choice of activities--horseback riding (best deal @$160 value for 2 people), shopping ($20 value), or rafting (not sure how much $ for this). Also a private candlelit dinner, flowers on arrival, a $50 gift certificate for logo merchandise from the gift shop (we got a couple of t-shirts and a hat), and a $100 gift certificate. for a return visit. The package also includes a bottle of champagne on arrival, which we did not get, but you can order this free from room service anyway. But all in all, this package is definitely a good deal!

Service: B
After reading about the friendliness of the Jamaican people, I was a bit disappointed in the actual service we received at the resort. While some was very good, much of it was average, at best. The people working at the front desk were cordial, and reasonably helpful. The bellmen/drivers were as a whole talkative and friendly. The housekeeping staff was very kind and helpful, happy to quickly answer any request for extra towels, to find us matches, or to make up the room whenever we were ready.

The wait staff, while generally nice, could use a lot more training as far as producing more of a fine dining experience. They always tried to hurry us out at dinner, which struck me as a bit odd. That’s something we have encountered at many restaurants in the states, ostensibly because servers want to turn over tables quickly in order to maximize tips. But since there is no tipping at Sans Souci, I didn’t really get the rush. The room service guys were all great—the food always got there quickly, and was always hot (or cold, if it was supposed to be!) Actually, in that respect, it was probably the best of any resort I’ve been to—for some reason, even the best hotels generally seem to have trouble getting food to your room in a timely (and edible) manner.

The bartenders were about 50/50 in terms of being friendly and quick with the drinks. Some were great, refilling our cups before we even asked. Others seemed to get caught up talking to other guests, while we sat there with our buzzes wearing off…lol. I have a feeling that many of the bartenders expected to be tipped before giving good service.

Grounds: A
Beautiful—so lush and green, and extremely well maintained, while still keeping that wonderful “natural” jungle-y feel. Everywhere you look, there are amazing flowers, big bunches of bananas, waterfalls, carved wooden animals, fountains, etc. Because the resort is partially built on a cliff, there are lots of steps to walk up and down. But we really didn’t mind them a bit, as they wound through such a lovely setting (and served as a great workout!) Really no matter where you stay in the resort, you will have to contend with the stairs, as the A & B room blocks, the beach, Pallazina and Beach Grill restaurants, and regular pools are down, and the C-G blocks, lobby, Cassanova, spa, mineral pool, Balloon Bar, and shops are up. The whole time we were there, though, we did not hear anyone complain about the steps! If you can’t do stairs for any reason, you can always call for a van to take you up and down the hill (although, you would still have some to contend with to get to the spa/mineral pool/exercise facility area).

There are several talking birds on the property (in cages, of course), whom we enjoyed stopping to talk to. Anita the parrot especially amused us with her laugh. And definitely be sure to take a look at Charlie, the gigantic 95-year-old sea turtle with his own special grotto next to the mineral pool and spa. Next to the grotto, there is a “doorway” with a couple of steps leading right into the sea—walk down and you’ll find a great place to hunt for tiny shells. There is also a large pond with dozens of small turtle, as well as fish and ducks. We had quite a time feeding them the remains of our pastry basket each morning (we don’t get out much…lol).

Beaches: C-
There are two beaches—one “regular”, one clothing optional (called Sunset Beach). Neither is particularly spectacular, but I guess they do the job. The regular beach is manmade, and the sand feels suspiciously similar to dirt. The sand on the CO beach is a bit better, but we noticed that when it rained on that beach, the water turned foamy and dirty, which was a bit gross! The major complaint I have about both beaches was the amazing amount of broken glass we picked up. Luckily, neither of us stepped on any (we were VERY careful as to where we stepped), but we saw someone else who had. I am surprised that this is not a bigger problem for the resort, as it is somewhat dangerous, and I think they would be well advised to figure out a way to fix this issue. One other thing I noticed was mismatched beach loungers—which again, is quite nit-picky, but it would be a nicer look to have matching furniture, IMO. The beach towels could also do with an upgrade—they are all sort of small and worn out, not what you would expect at a “5-star” hotel.

Pools: B
Nothing wrong with them, they were just a bit boring aesthetically. We did enjoy the mineral pool, though—the real health benefits are a bit dubious, but it was nice and warm! The hot tubs seemed to be broken for most of our stay, which didn’t bother me (I don’t like sitting in what is basically used bathwater!), but annoyed some of the other guests.

Spa: C+
We each had 2 massages a manicure and pedicure (my husband’s first ever!), and I also had a foot massage while my husband had an exfoliating scrub. The first massages we had were in a hut overlooking the ocean, which was great-very relaxing! The massages were not that great, but they were free, so I didn’t really expect them to be amazing. It just didn’t seem like the masseuses (we had the same ones both times) had any training—more like they were just sort of making it up as they went along! Still, it is always nice to have someone massage you for 25 minutes 

The second massages were even less impressive. When the masseuses were finished and left the hut, I looked at my watch and realized they had worked on us for less than 15 minutes. I though about saying something, but we were both a little sunburned from our one morning of good weather, and I did not want an angry person rubbing my red flesh! I did think that was kind of obnoxious of them to cut it so short though. Both times after our massages, the women were waiting right outside the hut when we left. My impression is that they were waiting for a tip. I think that when we did not give one the first time, they figured they weren’t going to bother giving the full 25-minute treatments the 2nd time around.

Food: B
Conde Nast has recently rated Sans Souci’s food the best in Jamaica. This makes me wonder about how bad the food is at other resorts on the island, as we were really not impressed. That’s not to say there weren’t some exceptions—the room services pizzas were great, the beach bar French fries the best I’ve ever had, delicious jerk pork, great snapper at Casanova, etc. But on the whole, the food tended to be pretty average. Do be sure to try the made-to-order omlets at breakfast, though--they were delicious!


Bars: B
The bars all seemed to be well stocked, although since I drank mostly fruity frozen things, I didn’t really notice whether they actually served top-shelf liquors as advertised. The beach bar was a nice place to hang out. It did get pretty crowded at certain times of day, especially since it was sheltered from the rain, but we enjoyed the lively atmosphere. The swim up bar at the pool was fine, as were the bars at the CO beach pool and the mineral pool—not as crowded, but still usually relatively busy. All seemed to have pretty much the same selection and level of service. The Balloon Bar was a bit of a disappointment—sort of dim and dull, but still a decent place to grab a drink before or after dinner. I believe that they usually have entertainment right outside. But due to the rain during our visit, there was no band or dancing, so perhaps that accounted for the lack of liveliness there. Overall, though, the bars serve their purpose, and it is certainly nice to have 5 of them!

Weather: D-
Once again, not the resort’s fault. Still, more than 4 hours of sun in a week would have been nice. If we did not have photos of the trip, I think people would think we were lying about having gone to Jamaica, since we were as pale when we got home as when we left. 

Activities: B+
- Sea kayaking- Sea kayaks can be rented from the activity hut on the main beach, along with hydro-bikes, windsurfers, and snorkeling equipment. All you have to do is sign it in and out, grab a life jacket, and go! We had a great time kayaking around the ocean off the resort shore.

- Manager’s cocktail party- Not a fun or lively activity, although it did provide us with several hours of laughter. I think it lasts an hour or so, with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and a band. The appetizers were quite honestly the worst things I have ever tasted, and the atmosphere was a cross between a 6th grade dance (people sitting listlessly in chairs placed against the walls) and a hospital waiting room (complete with bright

- Fashion show—unintentionally hysterical, especially when my husband decided there was no reason he shouldn’t get a turn to sashay down the runway. The clothes modeled were from the resort gift shop (except for my husband’s clothing, which was by Arizona State University and Levi’s…lol). The highlights included the male model walking out in nothing but a towel and a hat, as well as his turn in a very tiny Speedo. He wasn’t my type, but the group in front of us who apparently just finished long sentences in a woman’s prison were wildly appreciative!

Shopping: D
We went to Soni’s Plaza, which is a large outdoor shopping center, and to the craft market across the street. I have never seen that level of aggressiveness in my life—it was scary as well as annoying. I understand that the people in Jamaica are very poor, but I think there are better tactics than screaming at people and physically dragging them to your booth. We lest the craft market after a matter of moments, which was a shame since I had actually wanted to buy a couple of things. But it was just too overwhelming—and apparently other people felt the same way, as there were almost no shoppers, and those who did wander in left very quickly.

Aggression was also high in the shops at Soni’s—but bearable. We had about 2.5 hours or so there, which was MUCH too long—I enjoyed looking in the stores, but they all seemed to have very similar merchandise. There are really just two types of stores there—souvenirs and jewelry. We bought a few trinkets and t-shirts, and looked at some jewelry, but I would be wary of purchasing anything expensive there. I saw a lot of knockoff Tiffany, Cartier, etc. being passed off as real—with prices to match!

Horseback riding: C
Um, yeah, this was dangerous. And a little scary. Not to mention painful. But an interesting experience, I suppose (and one never to be repeated). A rather long and bumpy bus ride took us through several other resorts (mostly Sandals properties) on the way to the stables. It was interesting to see some of the other resort options in Ocho Rios—and reinforced my thoughts that we had definitely picked the best place for us! Not that there was necessarily anything wrong with the other places we saw—they were all just MUCH larger and more crowded than Sans Souci.

Anyway, we reached the stables (also the drop-off point for biking, ATV, and canopy tours). There is a tiny snack hut, and one of the most horrific bathrooms I have ever been in. The swarms of flies were so bad I’m shocked I did not end up with malaria. But the tour itself seemed pretty organized, and the staff competent, which was reassuring. Unfortunately, first impressions can be misleading. Anyway, we got on our horses (mine was named Super Shy, which was a complete fallacy—she should have been named Super Scary) and began the ride by going around the ring a couple of times. There were 8 or 10 people in our particular group, most of whom were beginners. I used to ride, but had not done it in ages, so I count myself in the beginner group.

From there we started off on the 45-minute trip to the beach. I could say that the ride was lovely and peaceful, and filled with beautiful scenery, but that would be a lie. It was uncomfortable to the point of being rather painful, and the scenery was not particularly inspiring. When we rode along the water, I was shocked at the amount of garbage everywhere—it looked as if every piece of trash produced in the country had been dumped along that shore. For another portion of the ride we were on a trail lined with razor wire, which seemed to be irresistible to the horses. I just barely managed to avoid having my legs sliced to ribbons several times. There were also several steep hills, which would have been fine on a different horse. Unfortunately, I don’t think Super Shy liked me very much, so as other horses calmly walked down gently sloped paths, she would run down the steepest part of the hill, presumable in an effort the get the whiny American off her back. But I am proud to say that though I had a couple of close calls, I did make it through the ride relatively unscathed!

However, the main problem with the ride was not equine, but human. The guys leading the ride were barely out of their teens and not exactly responsible. They would constantly gallop up behind the unsuspecting riders in our group and whip the horses’ rear ends with sticks, causing the horses to suddenly begin galloping. This was disconcerting for us, to say the least, as we struggled not to fall or be bucked off. Even after I asked them sweetly to stop doing that to my horse (honestly, I am usually not such a complainer, but I was fairly worried about falling off and breaking something!), they continued to do it.

Finally we reached the beach, and dismounted for a nice cup of rum punch (bring some cash—this was supposedly included , but was actually about $5 a drink). There were dozens of other riders at the beach, and groups of about 20-30 at a time would be riding in the water. When it was our turn, we were given different horses, which I was happy about, and led into the ocean. Here, the guides continued their whipping trick, which was even more frightening when surrounded by a couple of dozen horses in the sea. Everyone was packed together, so if anyone were to fall off their horse, they would likely be trampled underwater. Bob and I made sure to hang on tightly! I think that if much smaller groups went in at a time, and riders were more spread out, this would definitely have been a much more enjoyable experience. I do realize that I sound like a worried old lady here, but I am very protective of my bones and head 

At any rate, it was an interesting experience, but not one I would recommend to anyone. And, yes, you will be sore for several days afterwards. I couldn’t figure out why people kept assuming Bob and I were on our honeymoon, until I realized that I was quite literally walking like I had just gotten off a horse….

Tipping:
We really didn’t, except for the shuttle drivers (because we were not sure if they fell into the “no tipping” category or not). I know many people do, but we did not for a couple of reasons. First, there is in theory not supposed to be any—the workers will get fired if caught accepting tips. Secondly, if we have received really stellar service at any point, we may have tipped a bit, but I did not really want to tip for average service in hopes of it getting better.

Candlelit dinner: B-
This is pretty much an overblown way of saying “we’ll come and set the room service up on the table for you”. However, it did provide my husband and I with some laughs. One suggestion I would give SS is that they consider having a special menu for this dinner—even if it is only a few choices—rather than having it just off the standard room service menu. The waiter for our dinner was nice, if young and obviously very inexperienced. Our dinner was scheduled for 7, and they let us know that someone would be there at 6:45 to set up. The waiter arrived right on time to set our balcony table and place some candles around the balcony.

He left and came back with our appetizers, and placed them in front of us. Then he just stood there-two feet away from the table, staring at us. He started asking questions about where we were from, whether we were having a good time, etc. Nice, but not exactly conducive to the romantic dinner we had envisioned! My husband and I looked at each other, not really sure what to do. Finally my husband asked the waiter if we could have a moment to do a private toast. The guy looked confused, but left our room to go get our entrees.

So anyway, we get our entrees, he leaves to get our dessert, serves that, then just stands there again, watching us taste our desserts. My husband asks about 3 times how my dessert is, because we can’t really have any kind of personal conversation with the waiter standing right there. Finally the waiter decided he is going to go take our dinner dishes out, and he exits. Honestly, I felt bad that he probably felt like we didn't want him there, but for heaven’s sake, man, give us a bit of space! I think he was probably just standing there to help if we needed him, but really, I imagine that would have made most people a little uncomfortable. Again, though, I think he was young and somewhat unsure of what to do—in my opinion, SS just needs to give better training to some of their wait staff.

Honeymoon in Paradise--Moorea and Bora Bora

Honeymoon Review 4/11/2004-4/22/2004
Photo link: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AcNGLRs5bMJI



Hotels:


Intercontinental Beachcomber, Moorea:

Although everyone seems to like Bora Bora better, my husband and I actually preferred Moorea. We loved the dramatic setting with the lush mountains in the background, leading down to the stunningly beautiful beaches!

We arrived at the resort around 9 PM, after many long hours of traveling. The lobby is open-air and very large, with a gift shop and a pearl shop. There are Tahitian paintings (many for sale) decorating the few walls. Off the lobby area in the same very large building, there is also a large, airy bar/lounge opening onto the pool area, and with a view of the beach just beyond the pool. Every day, local artists set up shop in the lobby, and we enjoyed looking over their handicrafts. The lobby also has a hidden closet filled with books (just ask the front desk)which was great for me, since I love to read, but had somehow forgotten to pack a single piece of reading material.

While we checked in, we were given tall glasses of the most wonderful cold fruit juice, which were very welcome, considering the heat. Checking in took no time at all, and we were taken by golf cart to our beach bungalow. Inside, we found a platter of fruit and chilled bottles of champagne and mineral water waiting for us. We also found a pareu and t-shirt wrapped in shell bracelets on the flower-strewn bed.

The bungalows are lovely inside, decorated with dark tropical woods and Tahitian artwork, with a separate bedroom and sitting area with a sofa, chairs, a large desk, television, etc. The bathroom was not huge, but spacious enough, and very pretty. It had a huge bathtub and an open shower, so you never have to lose the view, even while soaping up! (Another bonus to our particular bungalow was that no one ever walked past the front of it, so it was always very private!) Every bungalow here has air-conditioning, which was very important to us! I love the way the bungalows are constructed. There were shutters on either side of the bed, which could be opened to let in the fragrant breezes. The one time it rained during our trip (very late at night), we woke up to the sound of the downpour hitting the thatched roof, a very unusual sound, but also romantic!

I had requested #311, and they gave it to us! It is definitely the best one at the resort. While it was very dark when we first got to the room, waking up the next morning, we were greeted with the most beautiful view imaginable. The deck of 311 is framed with beautiful tropical palms and other tropical trees and bushes. It is right on the beach (a few of the bungalows are set back a bit), allowing us a perfect view of the ocean, and immediate access to the beach. There was a hammock right next to our bungalow, which was not once (that we noticed) used by anyone else the entire time we were there.

Each morning, we would wake up about 4:30 or 5 in the morning due to jet lag, but it was actually really nice to be up so early. We would sit on our deck and just watch the sun coming up over the mountains. It was also fun to watch the big fish (and sharks!) feeding right in front of our balcony, causing hundreds of splashes as the little fish tried to escape being breakfast! Then we would go for a long walk, with the resort all to ourselves. The early morning was the best time for seeing unusual sea life, since the water would generally be very calm, and it would still be a bit dark. One morning, there was a two-foot-long shark about six inches from my foot as I stood on a tiny rock jetty. The next morning, I saw a very large eel swim right by (cool, but a little scary!)

The resort itself is relatively large and very lush. There are several different beaches, all with different and beautiful views and clear water. The beach right in front of our bungalow looked straight out to sea; to the right, we had a view of the overwater bungalows. One thing to note is that the OWBs at this hotel are really only halfway out of the water, so I would not recommend staying in them if you are looking for the true OWB experience. They are, however, very pretty, surrounded by lovely landscaping-actually much nicer to look at than the usual OWBs.

The resort is the home of the Dolphin Quest habitat/experience, which I go into more detail about in my activity reviews. There is also a sea turtle habitat at the resort. The resort also is home to a full service spa (the Helene Spa). We never made it over there for any treatments, but they all sounded wonderful! The concierge is happy to sit down and discuss the various activities with you, but we ended up just hanging out on the beach for the majority of our trip.

There are a couple of restaurants at the hotel-one is right off the pool, with indoor and outdoor seating. It has basic dishes such as hamburgers, steak or mahi-mahi sandwiches, and salads, as well as various pasta dishes and pizzas. The food was quite good, and service was excellent, very fast in comparison to anywhere else we went in French Polynesia. The other restaurant is on the second story of the main building. It has a good selection of salads and appetizers, and many different meat and fish entrees. The service here is also good, and usually the food was as well. The only complaint we had was that the tomato and mozzarella salad was salty beyond belief, and the lobster Bob ordered one night looked like something out of a horror movie. We still can't even describe what was wrong with the meat of that lobster-just don't order it!

As far as room service, we took knotties advice and ordered one breakfast each morning to share. It was delicious, and definitely more than enough food. It was always delivered quickly, was very fresh, and the room service staff was very sweet and accommodating (I am very picky about how food is cooked!) We also enjoyed happy hour at the bar. Along with the drinks, they bring a dish of delicious black and green olives and fresh coconut (I know it sounds like a strange combination, but actually was great!).

The resort was not crowded at all, which was very nice, and there also were almost no children staying there-definitely a plus on a romantic vacation! One of the only things we did not love about the hotel was the pool. It was nice, but somewhat generic, ie no unusual shape, landscaping, or other special details. It is, however, right next to the beach, with a lovely view of the water. But overall, we loved the resort, and can't wait to go back soon!

Intercontinental Beachcomber, Bora Bora:


This 5-star resort is located at Matira Point, on Matira Beach, which was recently named the best beach in the world! It is three miles of the most gorgeous sand and sea you can imagine, making the location hard to beat. The only downside is that the hotel is adjacent to some local homes, which are not exactly luxurious-looking, though they are picturesque, set against such a stunning backdrop.

We arrived by boat from the airport (as with all Bora Bora hotels), and were greeted with shell leis, then taken to the bar overlooking the pool to check in. Our check-in forms were brought to us on a silver tray, along with cool cloths and glasses of delicious fruit juice. The concierge personally checked us in, then took us on a tour of the resort, and to our overwater bungalow.

On outside the OWBs are typical-they look like every other OWB in FP. The stretch far into the lagoon, and surround stunning coral gardens. At night, the walkway down to the OWBs is lit with tiki torches, which also cast a glow throughout other parts of the resort. The resort actually underwent a complete renovation/facelift a year or so ago, so everything is very new and luxurious. On the inside, the bungalows are spacious, with a bedroom, large bathroom, and living room. The bungalows have very high ceilings and lots of windows, which makes them feel very open and airy. The bathroom was decorated to give the feeling of being outside, with vines and plants everywhere, and shutters that can be opened for a view of the water. Like in Moorea, the bungalows are all air-conditioned, and also have ceiling fans.

The living room was pretty much the same as at the ICB Moorea, but with a glass-topped coffee table that could be opened so as to feed the fish. Each bungalow has a coral reef directly underneath, so there are always tons of fish to look at. The bedroom had an enormous window, perfectly placed for watching the sunrise from bed. The porch was large, with two levels-the top level contained two cushy lounges flanking a small table, as well as a built in table and seats. Steps led to the lower platform, which had a ladder into the water. The lower level was also great for sunbathing.

Once again, we found a t-shirt and pareu waiting for us on a bed of flowers, and more fresh fruit and champagne, and they had also left a pretty carved mother-of-pearl necklace and a 'jet lag kit' full of goodies! We had a Horizon OWB, with a view of the ocean and other islands far out on the horizon. The basic OWBs are a bit smaller, and have a view of Bora Bora's mountain, and a couple of motus. Either way, you will have a lovely room and a spectacular view!

The service was generally good, although not quite as good as at the ICB on Moorea, especially at the poolside restaurant, the staff was on island time, which can get frustrating at times. The exceptions to this were Jerome, the concierge, who spent quite a bit of time going over the various activities and excursions with us. He was one of the most helpful and knowledgeable hotel staffers I have ever met in any hotel in the world. Stephanie at the front desk was incredibly friendly and helpful as well.

The ICB Bora Bora is small and intimate, and the grounds are lush and beautifully landscaped. There are several restaurants, as well as an indoor/outdoor bar next to the pool. The dishes are similar to that at the ICB Moorea, but better-every lunch and dinner we had was excellent. We ordered room service for breakfast each morning again, but it was not quite as good as at the first resort (or we may have just been tired of it!).

The lobby is open, with a pearl shop inside and a gift shop outside. In the gift shop, you can check out DVDs (each bungalow has a TV with DVD player), which is nice on nights when you are too tired from activities to do anything but order room service and chill out! There is an ¡§activities¡¨ bungalow, with Internet access, a pool table, books, brochures on dozens of different activities and excursions, and the concierge desk. The pool is beautiful-the main pool features a rocky waterfall and infinity edge. The water pours over the edge into a smaller pool with a sandy bottom, which is fun to sit in, looking out at the ocean.

Snorkeling equipment is free, but I would recommend bringing your own, especially if you are germ-phobic. There are also canoes, kayaks, and windsurfing equipment available, all free to rent (same thing at ICB Moorea). Several hammocks hang from palm trees at the edge of the water, and there are always plenty of beach loungers and umbrellas for when you want a bit of shade.

Overall the resort was wonderful, and though the service in general could be improved, I would still recommend the hotel as a lovely option in Bora Bora.

Activities:


Parasailing:


I love parasailing, and try to do it whenever I go to the beach, but it was particularly amazing in Bora Bora! Bob had never been before, but was so excited to try it. He and I went together, which was so much fun, pointing things out to one another from such an unbeatable vantagepoint. Although the guys running the operation looked a bit shady, they were actually very professional and nice. We chose the 25-minute 'sail' which took us up to 300 meters. From that height, the peak of Bora Bora's mountain seemed to be at eye level, and the boat pulling us along was a speck in the water.

I don't know about the shorter 'flights' (there were 2 other options-15 min./100 meters and 20 min/200 meters), but we circled the entire island. One thing I always love when parasailing is being able to see what's in the water, and the water is so clear there that you can see huge fish, stingrays, etc when you are not too high up.

Our favorite part may have been when we were being pulled back down towards the boat. We looked down, and directly under us were 7 or 8 HUGE sharks (I say huge because they even looked big from hundreds of feet up!). They were all together in a group, and it looked as if they may have been mating (Bob and I disagree on this-he likes to think that we witnessed a shark fight...lol)

Overall, we highly recommend parasailing while you are in BB. As far as price, it was about $300 USD for our excursion. For the 15 min, it was around $220, and about $290 for 20 min. (By the way, I kept the activity price list from our resort, so if you have any questions about activity prices, feel free to ask!)

Lagoonarium and shark feeding:


We thought about doing the 'Shark Boy' excursion, which we had heard good things about, but ended up going on the Lagoonarium tour instead, which includes shark and ray feeding, as well as snorkeling in the coral gardens. The only complaint we had about this tour was the number of people with us-around 20 or so. Oh, and the fact that the loincloth-clad guide spent most of the time on the boat talking to the people sitting next to and across from us, with his (almost) bare crotch and rear end in my face. But we still managed to have a great time-loincloth guy has since provided us with many laughs!

First, the tour took us out to the reef, where we hung onto a rope while the guide fed sharks and rays inches from us. It was amazing, and just a little bit scary. (I am proud of myself for not freaking out so much I frightened the sharks, like one woman on our tour did!)

Next, we went to the coral gardens for snorkeling. We loved this, although the current was so strong, we almost didn't make it back to the boat when it was time to go! But the water is deep here, fish in this area are amazing, and you can see huge clams, eels, and other interesting sea creatures.

The final portion of this tour is the Lagoonarium itself, which is on a private motu. Here, there are different areas blocked off with fences (not the most aesthetically pleasing things, but I guess they get the job done!)

Each area has different types of sealife, and you can get into the 'pools' and swim with the sharks, etc. The first area has huge sea turtles. The next pool contains jackfish, which are enormous, and stingrays, including one with no stinger, which you can pet (and I did, with much apprehension).

The third pool is home to more stingrays, tropical fish, and lots of sharks! There is also a small cage containing a large and rather mean looking moray eel. The guides open the cage, and you can pet the eel, which is surprisingly silky to the touch! The final pool is quite large and relatively deep, with more fish, stingrays and eagle rays, and lots of large sharks (lemons, black tips, and white tips).

I know it seems scary at first to swim with sharks, but it is really so amazing-I am now (almost) over my lifelong fear of sharks (thanks to my brother, I was forced to watch Jaws at a young age!) To be honest, I was much more afraid of the rays, which come right up to you, as if to investigate. One actually swam up and wrapped himself around my husband's face, which gave him quite a shock! But the sharks tend to keep their distance-I guess they really ARE more afraid of us than we are of them!

In all, it was a fabulous thing to do. We did the half-day, which I would recommend over the full day. The full day does include lunch, but by the time the 'half-dayers' left, we all agreed that a full day would be too long-you will be tired and sunburned by the end of the tour!

Massages:

We never made it to the Helene Spa at our resort, but instead ended up getting a side by side couples massage in our bungalow. Both of the masseuses were amazing-we felt so completely relaxed and blissful afterwards. I would definitely recommend honeymoon massages!!!

Private motu picnic:

Our hotel in Moorea gave this to us as a wonderfully unexpected perk when we checked in. They took us on a catamaran to a private motu, and dropped us off for several hours with champagne and a picnic fit for a king-fresh fish, fruit, cheese, bread, etc. We went snorkeling, explored the truly deserted island, and just had a very romantic day. It was truly like being in the movie 'Blue Lagoon'. We had such a great time that we ended up doing another motu picnic in Bora Bora (see below).

Semi-private motu picnic:


Just a hint to those of you traveling to FP-unless you are dead set on having your own private island for a few hours, this is a better deal by far. We were transported by boat to an island that, while not truly deserted, was still very secluded and unpopulated. The private motu picnics cost anywhere from $500-$1000 USD, and this excursion cost around $100 USD total for transportation and our picnic lunch.

When we first landed on the motu, there were a few other couples, but they left after a few minutes, and we had the beach and jungle to ourselves for the rest of the afternoon. Again, we went snorkeling in a gorgeous green sheltered 'lagoonette', as we called it, and just enjoyed the feeling of being completely alone on this stunning isle.

Dolphin Quest:

We had planned to do this, as it is located at the Moorea Beachcomber, where we stayed, but decided against it. We spent a lot of time watching the dolphins, and you can get within a few feet of them, which is incredible. But the price was around $700 USD for an hour, and after talking to a few couples who had participated, we decided it was not worth it to us. One of the trainers let us dangle our feet in the water and play with the gorgeous animals anyway! From what we observed/heard the DQ mainly consists of standing in the water near the dolphins while they do tricks and the guides talk about them. I would recommend just sitting on the shady beach at the edge of their habitat and watching/listening to the others do the Quest. Odds are, the trainers will let you pet the dolphins anyway-this way, you'll have the basic experience, and save $700.

Bloody Mary's:

Well, the food was good. The atmosphere was fun. The service was not very polished (then again, FP is not exactly known for stellar service!). When we walked in, they told us how they have no menus, and we were led to a table piled with raw fish-much of it dead but physically intact (call me provincial, but I really don't like to see how my food looked when it was alive!). Then someone who did not really speak English proceeded to tell us what each fish/dish was. Since neither Bob nor I could really understand what she had described, we decided to go to the bar first and order later.

While sitting at the bar sipping (quite delicious!) rum punch, the host (an American) walked up to us and asked if we had ordered yet. We told him that we had not, that we had decided to have a cocktail or two first. We asked if that was all right, because he just kept standing there. Then, he had the audacity to say (and this is a direct quote) 'Well, it would really be more convenient for US if you would go ahead and order'. He then blathered on, mentioning his and the restaurant's convenience several more times. Um, oh, okay, of course we want to make things as convenient as possible for you, buddy. That's why we came here tonight, to make things easier for you. It would really be more convenient for US if you left us alone and paid for our dinner.

Well, that's what we were thinking at least. We didn't actually say that to him (hey, we were both raised in the South-we're too polite for that!) Instead, we looked at him like 'are you kidding us?' and he finally did a 180 and said that he guessed it would be okay for us to order when the next group of English speakers came through. Finally he left us alone, and we both nearly fell off our barstools laughing.

Our waitress was very sweet and helpful, though-one of the best servers we encountered our whole trip. The wine list is not extensive, but is good and reasonably priced. For appetizers, we had shrimp, steak, and veggie kabobs--yummy! We both had the special-mahi-mahi with vegetables and some type of ranch sauce, which was truly wonderful.

Shopping:


Le Petite Village, Moorea

This is a good place to but pareus, as well as pearls (see below). Lots of shops, all with basically the same merchandise, although some have a better selection than others do. The village is located a few miles west of the Moorea Beachcomber resort.

Black Pearl Gem Company
(located in Le Petite Village, Moorea)

My sweet husband bought my black pearl necklace here. They have a beautiful selection, and the staff is wonderful-very friendly, patient, and helpful. The prices are excellent, and the store itself is lovely. You are offered a cool drink the moment you walk into the store, and are welcome to look around for as long as you like, with no pressure as there often is in Tahitian pearl shops. They offer a free shuttle back and forth to the store from most or all of the major hotels.

General Tips:

1. It's been said before, I'll say it again-order 1 breakfast from room service. You'll save money, and there will be lots of food left over for feeding the fish!
2. Buy a couple of bottles of liquor at the duty free shop at LAX-sometimes it's nice to be able to relax on your deck with a cold drink, without having to wait for it to be delivered.
3. Bring your own snorkeling equipment-it's free at most resorts, but you get what you pay for-it is generally poor quality.
4. The Bora Bora airport has a mosquito problem-bring bug spray in your carry-on.
5. Bring twice as much film as you think you'll need.
6. Ditto with sunscreen
7. Don't forget reef shoes-the ocean bottom is full of things that cut and sting, and bite.
8. Pack lightly and casually-you will wear mostly bathing suits, t-shirts, and pareus.
9. Get up early-the sun sets early, and you will have more daylight time. Plus, there is not very much to do at night, other than eat and drink.
10. Tamanu oil is amazing on sunburns-you can buy it at the hotel gift shop. It smells a little odd, but will heal a sunburn within 48 hours.

Note: I have tried to be as honest as possible about the good and bad things on our honeymoon. For all the Knotties considering a trip to FP or anywhere else, remember to take 'perfect' reviews with a grain of salt. No one's honeymoon is without flaws, and there is no one 'best' place to go. No matter where you decide to stay on your HM, it will be fabulous, so HAVE FUN!